Oh My Seoul

Thinker's Playground Vol. 1

2010-03-15T13:48:00.002-04:00

A very talented friend of mine, Scott Maier, got in touch with me a few months ago regarding a literary project he had begun working on. He asked for a few essays, which I provided, and I was suprised and excited to view the final results. Combining the writing and photographic skills of himself and several other individuals, vol. 1 of Thinkers Playground contains themes both international and domestic. It's a great read and I'm so happy to have been included!

check it out here

Packing

2010-02-22T00:04:00.003-05:00

My things peek out at me from boxes. Timid and nervous, they await their fate. It depresses me slightly how few things I own, especially considering I'll be getting rid of half the boxes barely taking up space in my tiny apartment.

My apartment, at first of symbol of my new found freedom, has become my confinement. I am a modern Rapunzel, 15 stories up, looking out at a landscape of endless glass and steel. Softly, I hum memories of the world outside, quietly building inertia. How I wish I could let down my hair...

I'm on edge now. My things are staring at me vacantly. They seem unfamiliar, as if they had appeared overnight. Who bought this blender? Who mopped this floor and washed these pots and pans for the past year? I feel disconnected from these things and eager to hand them over to someone else.

I own one week in Korea and a couple of boxes of junk.

So this is what I've made of my life, I think... But, then, something inside me swells up indignantly. Yes! That's right! This is what I've made of my life. I can pack it up in two suitcases and move it where I please. I can give much of it away without pain. I am not weighted down, I am not drowning in stuff.

I own two suitcases and a future filled with adventure.

The surge of passion quickly recedes to calmness tinged with confusion. I'm fairly certain that I'm living for something, but I still can't be sure what it is. I've often wondered over the past few years if it was possible to live life differently, and then whether or not it was entirely selfish. Now, sitting her among my boxes, I know the answers are "of course" and "irrelevant." Still, there must be some method to my madness. We humans continually seek patterns out of chaos, stability in the most volatile of existences.

So, here I sit, seeking meaning in the clutter of my boxed possessions, imagining that it matters one bit whether I have two suitcases or twenty. No, I suppose it doesn't matter at all.

Perched on the edge of uncertainty yet again, I can't help but feel a little frightened. I think back to that flight, over one year ago, from New York to Hong Kong. That flight where I verged on hysteria, clutching letters from home and spilling orange juice on innocent bystanders. This time the fear is different. This time I know it's so much more than okay to feel afraid. It's absolutely vital.

I don't know much about the future. I won't even venture to guess. All I know is that I want to watch the concrete crumble until it is fine sand. I want to trade city lights for constellations and I want to climb down from my enclosure on the fifteenth floor and feel the ground beneath me again.

And so, I'll turn out the lights and close the door one last time. I'll get on that plane and I'll live my life out of two suitcases. Who knows? Maybe I'll even whittle it down to one.

The Seoul of My Story: An Imaginary Day

2010-02-04T00:01:00.002-05:00

The early morning air in Seoul is soft and heavy with mist. As I stretch out in the cool damp grass, the world is painted in lavender. My fingers idly pluck at blades as the sky tints pink, warming despite the chill in the air. The amorous Han River mirrors the abundant sky, enthralled by the kaleidoscopic moods of the air.

I too am captivated by the scene. The prodigious high rises of Seoul reach towards the now vivid orange sky, marching outward to infinity. They are giants; monuments to human ingenuity and progress; antagonists to the gentle mountains rolling across the horizon. They speak to me across generations, their multi-linguistic signs heralding a new era in the life of the city. They whisper secrets about the future, now while it is quiet, while most of the city silently sleeps.

Gentle clouds roll in as the sky becomes tranquil blue. I am no longer alone in my grassy haven. People filter in from all over the city, eager to share the sunshine and delicate breeze. They unfurl blankets and set out picnics. Motorboats skim across the surface of the river and bicycles buzz through winding footpaths. Children chase each other through the trees as bemused parents look on. The city has awoken and once again it thrives.

Closing my eyes I imagine the Han River before the arrival of people and construction of skyscrapers. I picture it flowing silently from the mountains, gradually gaining momentum until it rushes ecstatically into the Yellow Sea after a journey of over 500 kilometers. I see trade ships proudly roaming it waters, bringing prosperity and growth. I see wars being fought for its control and the waters running red. I imagine, much later, the same waters rippling beneath the oars of the 1988 Olympic rowers, testaments to the peace which long ago stilled the gentle river.

Restless, I wander into the city where gleaming office towers interweave with traditional palaces and temples. It's only a short subway ride from the Han River to Insa-dong, Seoul's famous artists' neighborhood. A small knot of streets in Seoul's Jongno-gu district, Insa-dong has specialized in the antiques market for centuries. It's fusion of the traditional and the modern make it a perfect microcosm of Seoul itself. Historical architecture abounds, most notably Jogyesa, a Korean Buddhist temple and Unhyeongung, a former royal residence.

Any wanderer could easily pass the hours perusing the many antique shops and galleries lining Insa-dong's alleyways. Here, contemporary art mingles with ancient pottery and vintage jewelry. Books with well worn covers wait to tell their stories while hand made paper begs for new stories to be written. There is something here for every eye, and I browse slowly, finding treasures among the multitude.

Weary shoppers can stop for a cup of tea in one of the many traditional tea houses or modern cafes in the area. I order a warm cup of daechu-cha, or jujube tea. Its aroma and deep red color are equally as pleasing as its sweet flavor. The tea is served in a beautiful earthenware cup with slivers of jujube and pine nuts floating along its surface. Some say the jujube helps alleviate stress, and curled up in my chair, I can certainly feel its magic. Fully relaxed, I drift back into the street and head home, arms laden with bags.

By now the sun is sinking low in the sky, peeking between the industrial giants before disappearing beneath the mountains. I sit down at an outdoor restaurant with a friend and order steaming pots of soon dubu jjigae, a favorite of mine. The spicy soup brimming with tofu and vegetables is served in a stone bowl which keeps it bubbling hot long after it arrives at the table. My skin flushes as I eat spoonfuls of the spicy liquid, warming me as the air cools and the night rolls in over the city.

We finish our meal and seek out the highest bar we can find for a glass of wine and a view. The mountains in the distance are a study in texture and hue. They multiply and saturate until the deepest blues melt into the soft night air. We sit silently a long while and a feeling of gratitude swells inside of me for all of seen and done and learned over the past year. Meanwhile the light of day softens into the glow of night.

The neon lights of the city beckon us, drawing us back into its center. The intersections are draped in webs of pedestrians, all eager to partake in Seoul's legendary nightlife. Vendors line the busy streets and a mosaic of street food smells fill the air. There are thousands of bars and cafes in the city, but no matter which one we choose, we always manage to find a familiar face or discover a new friend. Tonight should be no different. Surely some adventure awaits us in the ever vigilant city of Seoul. Another chapter in an infinite volume, a story as of yet, untold.

Change is Good

2010-02-01T01:12:00.002-05:00

The constant commotion in my head has kept me from blogging for the past few weeks. Every time I sit down to write, the words have been swallowed up in a wall of static noise Ideas fly around my brain like psychotic butterflies, never stilling for a moment of rest and always eluding the net.

This flurry of thought is not, thankfully, a nervous breakdown. It's just that in the last weeks everything has changed.

For the past few months something has been off. Maybe I didn't even realize it at the time, but a disturbance had rippled through my life sending me, unmoored, into the unknown. And there, vulnerable and directionless, the restless wind which settles into my bones from time to time began to wrap itself around me once more. This is where the trouble began.

Coming back from the Philippines (a trip I've been desperate to write about and will soon) I noticed something was not right. As I sat on the airplane that would return me to my life in Korea I felt an emptiness in my chest and a dull sense of anxiety - an emotion I am not very familiar with.

For the first time, I didn't want to go back to Korea. I no longer sensed impending excitement and opportunity, only the slow rhythmic beat of routine. It was putting me to sleep, this gentle lullaby, and I realized I'd settled in deeply and was prepared to dream away my early twenties in Korea. I realized immediately this is something I don't want.

Don't get me wrong... the past year has been amazing. I would not change a single moment and still consider choosing to teach in Korea one of the most important decisions of my life. I just feel it's time to give somewhere else a try. I know instinctively that there is more out there for me to discover.

As a rule, I always go with my deepest instincts. At times, this is infuriating for people because I fluctuate wildly for a few weeks before impulsively choosing an often counter intuitive path. This method, however, has never steered me wrong. It may be ill suited for many people, but for the way I choose to live my life, I can't see any other way.

So, I started to research teaching in other areas of Asia. I threw myself into research and job applications with unceasing intensity. Then, when the noise in my head had grown the loudest, Maddy had an idea that shut it off, as abruptly as the power button on a television.

"What if you came with me to San Diego for the summer?"

There had been a million possibilities in my brain, and if you take out the obvious draw of being with Maddy all summer, San Diego was no where on my list, but something about it made sense deep down.

We carried the idea further... work a few months, live as cheaply as possible, have a short break from Asia, then find new teaching contracts at the end of August elsewhere in Asia. It felt right. More importantly, it felt exciting.

I could go on and on about my decision process, but there really is no need. When it comes down to it, after all things were considered, it just felt like what I wanted. And if there is one rule I live by, it's always to live the life that will make you the most happy, and let everything else sort itself out.

So, my new plan... here goes... I will finish teaching in Korea on February 26th. On the 27th my friend Willie and I will fly to Bangkok and meet Maddy. The three of us will travel Laos and Cambodia and return to Seoul on March 9th in time to take advantage of the free ticket home my contract offers me. Then I will fly to Boston and spend a few weeks with my family. At the beginning of April I will meet Maddy in San Diego and sort out our summer.

Living and blogging in Korea has been amazing. I still have plenty to say about it and hope to blog much more in the next few weeks. All things come to an end eventually, and for now, I'm getting ready to say goodbye to Korea.

Boracay in Pictures

2010-01-15T00:13:00.014-05:00

Picture Perfect Blue-green ocean

Gorgeous Orange Sunsets

Sunset Sailing

Poisonous Snakes

Daytime Cruising

Watching the setting sun from the cove

Eating Exotic Fruits on the Shore

Only in Boracay

Lounging in Paradise

Perfection

I woke up every morning to this

Sunset on the Sand

Top Moments of 2009

2009-12-24T02:07:00.002-05:00

I'd like to think about my goals for 2010 while I am away for the next two weeks in the tropical paradise that is Boracay. This will be my last post of 2009, so I thought I would choose my favorite moments of the past year...

1. Coming out of a laid back rooftop bar in Chiang Mai to find a baby elephant trudging along up the road, which we then proceeded to pet and kiss like crazy.

2. My Italian dinner date with Lacy and Maddy in Chiang Mai - it was the origin of the A Team, a collaboration prophesied by the ancients and written in the stars.

3. Swimming to a deserted island on Koh Chang. We swam in the open ocean for an hour, all the while thinking about sharks and ugly black rock crabs. Then we had to drag ourselves over slimy rocks in only inches of water for what seemed the length of a football field because we the rocks were to slippery to walk on. We made it to the beach eventually and broke coconuts with rocks then drank the fresh juice.

4. Standing at the observation deck of the world's tallest building, Taipei 101

5. Covering ourselves in mud for hours on end at Mudfest.

6. Our idyllic mountain top bungalow in Koh Phagnan where we met our "shaman" and passed a magical night celebrating his birthday.

7. Standing in the sea on Tsushima, Japan after surviving an arduous bicycle odyssey.

8. Luxury noraebanging with our new friend Kevin in Busan (noraebang is a karaoke room)

9. Bungee Jumping- it was horrifying, but I did it.

10. And finally, writing my 100th blog post today and discovering that I have had 2,000 profile views this year. Thanks to everyone who finds the time to read my ramblings, I hope they've been somewhat amusing. Here's to more adventures next year!!

Happy Holidays

20 '09 Resolutions Revisited

2009-12-21T22:59:00.004-05:00

I started off my blog by making 20 resolutions/predictions for the year ahead. Let's take a look and see how it all went...

1. to see a bamboo forest. Hmmm, well, no, didn't do that... To be honest I'm not really even sure where to find a bamboo forest around here... maybe next year in Japan.
2. to stand on the Great Wall of China. Okay... off to a slow start. No China yet.
3. to go swimming in the ocean in every place possible. Thailand, Japan, Korea, the Philippines... not bad, not bad.
4. to hear wild elephants trumpet in Chiang Mai. Saw, played with, kissed, fed and heard plenty of elephants in Chiang Mai... magical
5. to smell the cherry blossoms in spring time. I even took a picture, Korean style...
6. to taste sushi in Japan. I did this just in time, as I've now given up seafood.
7. to touch an ancient Buddha. I have had my Buddha fill over here and it never gets old.
8. to learn to meditate in a temple. I never wrote a post on the temple stay I did in Korea recently, but we did in fact practice several types of meditation in a temple.
9. to remember how transient life is. A work in progress. I still try to be mindful of this whenever possible.
10. to forget my limitations. Did that on more than a few occasions... Sometimes it doesn't have quite the desired effect...
11. to keep up with my yoga! Happy to report I have done this. I took an amazing Hatha (hot) yoga class with Maddy just last night!
12. to read at least five modern classics. I've read about 45,000 books so far this year, so I'm going to consider this accomplished. The best? Tropic of Cancer, Murakami's short stories, Shadow of the Wind, and The Heart of the World by Ian Baker
13. to find new friends in unusual places. This I have done for sure. (Read my blog for proof!!)
14. to write about fear and loneliness. My blogs seem to be overwhelmingly positive, which has matched my mood this year. I have to say I have never been so consistently and overwhelmingly content and my writing has reflected it. I think I was very nervous (and still home!) when I made this list. Still, I'd like to delve into these emotions.
15. to travel to a place whose name I don't even know yet. Koh Chang, Koh Phi Phi, Krabi, Busan, Tsushima, every suburb/dong in Seoul, Boracay... the list continues...
16. to teach with passion, commitment, and silliness in proper doses. I couldn't begin to comment on this. I love teaching, I want to be a good teacher, I try to be a good teacher. There are also days when I just can't find the motivation.
17. to conquer the Korean language... or maybe just learn a few conversational bits... BA HAHAHAHAHAHA!!!!! No, but seriously.... BA HA HA HA HA HA!!
18. to say yes to new opportunities even when i feel like being a hermit. I'd like to thank Maddy for helping me accomplish this one...
19. to organize a trip to Bali. Oh Bali, plane tickets to you are very expensive, so your cousin the Philippines won out. I want to see you so bad. Let's play next year. Your friend, Brittany
20. to plan another year as if it were my last. 20 '10 Resolutions doesn't have the same ring to it, but I'll have to come up with something equally genius before I fly off to paradise.

10 Ways I've Become Korean This Year

2009-12-21T22:45:00.003-05:00

1. I enthusiastically use scissors to cut up my food. Maybe it's not elegant but it's just so convenient.

2. I use phrases like "same same," "it is your privacy," and "Oh! Do you know?!?" in everyday conversation.

3. I am horrified by wearing shoes indoors. Unless, of course, they are indoor shoes.

4. I don't find it strange when five different students fall off their chairs during one class period.

5. I feel really guilty if I'm tired and want to leave the bar before the sun rises. "I'm so sorry guys, I just can't hang. It's 4 am and I really just need to go home."

6. If I can't get my way I resort to making long whining noises until people give in.

7. Forks feel kind of big and clumsy...

8. "I'd like a cop-ae latte please. Yes, that's right, a coppee"
"Let's drink a few Cass-uh and go to the dance-uh club."
"What time is it? Oh, let me check my watchee."

9. My next boyfriend will have to wear matching outfits with me, hold my purse when we go out, and stage dramatic parting scenes on the subway.

--and--

10. It's a holiday and that can only mean one thing: drink soju with your coworkers until someone is dancing with a fire extinguisher while a few others sing horrendous karaoke and someone gets sexually harassed. I forget... is this standard practice in America as well???

Happy Holidays!

The Cove

2009-12-16T22:55:00.005-05:00

I recently watched the highly acclaimed documentary, The Cove, and I found myself both deeply disturbed and deeply inspired... by things I didn't know, and by things I've known but ignored.

The documentary was created as an attempt to expose the atrocious dolphin slaughters occurring in Taiji, Japan, where about 23,000 are killed per year. It also points to the hypocrisy and cruelty of the captive dolphin industry and the dangers of mercury poisoning and overfishing to the future of our health and our oceans.

As I said, I had known about Taiji, but hadn't really educated myself. I've also known about the destruction of the oceans due to our inexhaustible demand for fish. This demand, if left unchecked, will lead to the collapse of our oceanic ecosystem, and much sooner than we think.

As a committed vegetarian, I could point out that the dolphin slaughters are easily comparable to factory farming in the United States. Hidden cameras there had the same profound effect upon my conscience and would surely equally shock film festival audiences. But why then, besides a brief stint a year ago, have I continued to consume seafood? How can I support the fishing industry in good conscience?

Growing up on the shores of Rhode Island (the Ocean State) the sea was my playground, my caretaker, and teacher. When I tortured my mother during the last hot months of her pregnancy, she floated in the sea for hours on end for relief. The soft rolling of the waves was my very first lullaby. Growing up by the sea, I learned to contemplate, respect, and love it. I believe the salt is in my blood.

It's difficult for me, however, to separate my idyllic memories of the sea from the smell of steaming clams, swordfish blackened on the grill, and flounder baked with buttery breadcrumbs. These things taste good, but as all things, they have a price. For me I think this price as become too high and I can no longer afford to enjoy these things. I can no longer support an industry that has been allowed to run wild.

I remember the first time I put a mask over my eyes and descended into the underwater world. I remember the first coral reef I ever laid my eyes upon, the schools of fish in technicolor and the seaweed dancing rhythmically beneath rolling swells. Now, I try to imagine descending in twenty years and finding it all destroyed.

A few weeks ago, I watched a short video which upset me enough to stop me from eating seafood. So far it has been a tentative cessation, but after watching The Cove, I've decided to make my New Year's Resolution: No More Seafood.

For those of you reading to learn about Korea, I am sorry this post is off topic. I am writing this now to draw attention to this well made, riveting and very worth while documentary, NOT to convince people to make decisions such as the one I have made. In fact, the documentary does not attempt to dissuade people from eating seafood. It is simply a causal connection I made on my own. One I think I have been trying to make for a long time. I am declaring my intentions publicly as a way to hold myself accountable.

As the film so aptly stated, you can either be one of two things "an activist or an inactivist" and though I feel I've lost my way somewhat this past year. I hope to remain the former.

To view the trailer or find more information please visit:
http://thecovemovie.com/
http://www.takepart.com/thecove

Below is the film synopsis, taken from the official website:

The Cove begins in Taiji, Japan, where former dolphin trainer Ric O’Barry has come to set things right after a long search for redemption. In the 1960s, it was O’Barry who captured and trained the 5 dolphins who played the title character in the international television sensation “Flipper.”
But his close relationship with those dolphins – the very dolphins who sparked a global fascination with trained sea mammals that continues to this day -- led O’Barry to a radical change of heart. One fateful day, a heartbroken Barry came to realize that these deeply sensitive, highly intelligent and self-aware creatures so beautifully adapted to life in the open ocean must never be subjected to human captivity again. This mission has brought him to Taiji, a town that appears to be devoted to the wonders and mysteries of the sleek, playful dolphins and whales that swim off their coast.
But in a remote, glistening cove, surrounded by barbed wire and “Keep Out” signs, lies a dark reality. It is here, under cover of night, that the fishermen of Taiji, driven by a multi-billion dollar dolphin entertainment industry and an underhanded market for mercury-tainted dolphin meat, engage in an unseen hunt. The nature of what they do is so chilling -- and the consequences are so dangerous to human health -- they will go to great lengths to halt anyone from seeing it.
Undeterred, O’Barry joins forces with filmmaker Louis Psihoyos and the Oceanic Preservation Society to get to the truth of what’s really going on in the cove and why it matters to everyone in the world. With the local Chief of Police hot on their trail and strong-arm fishermen keeping tabs on them, they will recruit an “Ocean's Eleven”-style team of underwater sound and camera experts, special effects artists, marine explorers, adrenaline junkies and world-class free divers who will carry out an undercover operation to photograph the off-limits cove, while playing a cloak-and-dagger game with those who would have them jailed. The result is a provocative mix of investigative journalism, eco-adventure and arresting imagery that adds up to an urgent plea for hope.

Annyeong Anyang!

2009-12-10T23:47:00.004-05:00

Yesterday I went on my very first job interview in Korea. I must say that I vastly prefer the process over here. It felt a lot more like I was interviewing the school than the other way around.

Taking a step back, I previously wrote about my plans to continue living in Korea next year. I wanted to move to Bucheon or Anyang (satellite cities of Seoul not far from my current location), live with or near Lacy, and begin my contract in April so I'd have time to travel.

Joyce at Korvia Consulting did another phenomenal job finding me a placement meeting all of my conditions (which was not an easy task).

I received word that an elementary school in Anyang wanted to have an interview with me and replied that I could meet with them any day after school or on Saturday. The school decided that they wanted me to come earlier on a week day and informed Korvia that they would call my principal to request that I leave school early on the day of the interview. This was a little awkward for me, as I had turned down an offer to work a second year at my school, but apparently not a big deal in Korea. Imagine that... leaving work early to interview for another job - and not lying about it.

I arrived at Anyang Station and was greeted by a tiny woman in her thirties. Grace Park approached me with a large smile on her lovely face and led me on the very short walk to the school ( First + school is near the subway). After entering and slipping into our indoor shoes we went to meet the principal. Apparently Grace knows the former principal at my school and we both agreed he is the nicest man. She assured me that the principal at this school was very similar and she was right. The principal's character and sense of humor were immediately evident despite the fact that he didn't speak any English (Second + principal and coteacher are both wonderful).

We chatted about life in Korea over coffee and they expressed some concern over the fact that I would be leaving the country between contracts. They told me if they hired me and I did not return to Korea for some reason, their students would suffer for it. To be honest I hadn't even thought of this and all I could offer was my word, but when I assured them of my intent to return they immediately told me that they liked and trusted me ( Third + the school is willing to give me the benefit of the doubt and is relaxed).

There is an element of pageantry in the school interview process and I got the feeling that all they had really wanted was to get a look at me. They had my resume and recommendations already, but looks are very important in Korea, particularly when it comes to English Programs. Once I got the impression that I had passed this test (oh yes, they will tell you right to your face first thing) I pretty much knew it was in the bag.

Grace showed me the English classrooms, which were smaller than the one cavernous room I occupy now. She had seen my school and seemed very worried that I would be unhappy with the classrooms. They seemed lovely to me. Not only were they brimming with artwork and English storybooks, they wouldn't supply students with enough room to run around and hit each other like they do in my present classroom. I told her I thought the school was wonderful and would love to work with her and she told me that she and the principal liked me very much and she was sure they would hire me.

Then she walked me back to the station, took my hand and suggested we get dinner together over the winter break. I told her I would love to and she hugged me goodbye. Really, it was more of a love story than an interview. Ahhh Korea.

Today I accepted their job offer and will be signing a contract shortly. My start date is April 14th which gives me 5-6 weeks to travel Vietnam, Cambodia and Laos before beginning fresh in my new year in Seoul.

10 Things I'm Thankful for in Korea

2009-12-01T22:44:00.003-05:00

better late than never.... here goes:

10. Being able to zone out or doodle during "meetings" at work and having a perfectly valid excuse (the meetings are in Korean)

9. No longer having to attend meetings at work because I just zone out while I'm there.

8. Being able to wear jeans and big comfy sweaters everyday to school, although I am not thankful that the school isn't heated.

7. Bibimbap - a big bowl of rice, vegetables, and spicy red paste available at nearly all Korean restaurants. Every vegetarian's best friend!

6. The old lady with the walker who I always pass on the way home from school. Every day she stops, gives me a huge grin, and starts speaking in Korea. I don't understand, so I just smile and say hello, but she never gives up.

5. My Friday third grade class. In the middle of a sea of inattentive, too cool, rowdy sixth grade classes, their enthusiastic little faces prevent me from having a break down.

4. Hongdae. Yes, I said it. I might be equally un-thankful for this nightlife hot spot, but those of you who know what I'm talking about, imagine life in Seoul without it...

3. Finally working up the courage to stop eating school lunch this semester. No, I don't like eating octopus tentacles and soup broth that's had beef (or who knows what) stewing in it all day. And unlike most Koreans I don't consider plain white rice and a side of kimchi a complete meal. I've come to terms with the fact that when you are permanently settled in a place, you can compromise between cultural immersion and personal well being.

2. Taiwan, Jeju, Tsushima, Thailand, the Philippines... Getting paid well in a secure job with great benefits - including ample vacation days.

and finally...

1. Taking a huge risk with the potential for colossal failure and ending up living a great adventure, making amazing friends, and loving it enough to stick around for another year.

The Story of Thankgiving... as told by a Korean 4th grader

2009-12-01T22:29:00.003-05:00

Answer to the writing prompt "Write your own story about what it would have been like if you were one of the Pilgrims on the Mayflower"
by So-young

"My ship is super and power ship so it was no cold, many food and everyone is happy but we meet a typhoon. Good fortune, we have a many life boat and life jacket and then save indian. Indian is very kind. I sad "we want a ground. can you give to ground for me?" indian sas "sure your my friend, okay we'll be a divide ground. But you don't raise war, okay?" I sas "Ok!" and then one piecese for mine and one pieces for indian. Indian and we're had a party. everyone play game, singing, eat food. and my one pieces ground me is...

United States of America
U.S.A.

-End-"

If only this were how it really happened.

I know I post a lot of NYTimes stuff, but... Happy Thanksgiving!

2009-11-27T02:09:00.002-05:00

Enjoy, it really captures how I'm feeling this Thanksgiving (and everyday)

November 26, 2009
New York Times Global Edition
Editorial

A Thanksgiving Toast

Sitting down with friends and family today, there will be thanks for the steady currents, flowing out of the past, that have brought us to this table. There will be thanks for the present union and reunion of us all. And there will be prayerful thanks for the future. But it’s worth raising a glass (or suspending a forkful for those of you who’ve gotten ahead of the toast) to be thankful for the unexpected, for all the ways that life interrupts and renews itself without warning.

What would our lives look like if they held only what we’d planned? Where would our wisdom or patience — or our hope — come from? How could we account for these new faces at the Thanksgiving table or for the faces we’re missing this holiday, missing perhaps now all these years?

It will never cease to surprise how the condition of being human means we cannot foretell with any accuracy what next Thanksgiving will bring. We can hope and imagine, and we can fear. But when next Thanksgiving rolls around, we’ll have to take account again, as we do today, of how the unexpected has shaped our lives. That will mean accounting for how it has enriched us, blessed us, with suffering as much as with joy.

That, perhaps, is what all this plenty is for, as you look down the table, to gather up the past and celebrate the present and open us to the future.

There is the short-term future, when there will be room for seconds. Then there is the longer term, a time for blossoming and ripening, for new friends, new family, new love, new hope. Most of what life contains comes to us unexpectedly after all. It is our job to welcome it and give it meaning. So let us toast what we cannot know and could not have guessed, and to the unexpected ways our lives will merge in Thanksgivings to come

Wedding Circus

2009-11-17T18:52:00.002-05:00

Great NY Times article:

Questioning a Korean Wedding Tradition

Seoraksan National Park

2009-11-15T05:42:00.018-05:00

Seoraksan's dramatic face

Korea's rolling mountains

sitting Buddha

Mountain Temple

Fall foliage

Cave Temple

Resident monk

Falling leaf reflection

The ascent

The Summit

Red Peppers drying in the sun

Mountain meditations

Three wisemen in the forest

Leaves collecting on the water's surface

Cascading water

Forest paradise

빼 빼 로 Day!

2009-11-10T21:03:00.005-05:00

Today is 빼 빼 로 (Pepero) Day in Korea, a holiday managing to be just as lucrative for the Korean candy companies as Valentine's Day. The holiday, most likely started by mega corporation, Lotte, is celebrated by exchanging Pepero (a Lotte bran) sticks and other small gifts. A Pepero is a cookie stick dipped in chocolate and other toppings. The celebration came about as a clever marketing tool because the date 11/11 resembles the Pepero. I've come to learn that Koreans adore anything related to love and cutesy gifts, so it's not surprising that this holiday took off.

There is at least a dozen other holidays celebrating love and friendship in Korea. And stores having been showing elaborate Pepero displays for two weeks now. I loved watching the Korean men scramble to buy Pepero for the girlfriends last night. I'd love to see what would happen to the poor schmuck who managed to forget somehow.

I came to school this morning and was immediately swarmed with students flinging chocolate at me. Luckily, I came prepared with plenty of 빼 빼 로 to exchange. Check out my stash in the picture above. Assah!

A cold breeze, a cup of tea, and a plan

2009-11-04T07:32:00.011-05:00

Beautiful Boracay

More Boracay... be jealous (pics not mine, obviously)

Suri mountain, view from my window

Seoraksan National Park

Seoraksan (these pics not mine either, you'll see my version next week!)

It only took one night to go from walking to school with no jacket to wearing a winter coat. One night like any other in which the icy winds crept in replacing the gentle breeze with biting gusts. The cold weather brought something with it other than chills, however, it brought a nagging feeling that my year here was coming to a close and I needed to begin planning for the future.

If you know me at all, you know I am not a planner. A schemer, maybe. An impulsive day dreamer who dives headlong into recently concocted, half planned adventures...sure. It's my nature, so I go with it. Besides, it hasn't steered me wrong yet. Nevertheless, staying in Seoul requires some forethought and I am certain I want to remain where I am.

Sure, a huge part of me wants to move on and continue journeying. I can teach anywhere, right? Well, not with massive student loans breathing down my neck. The huge financial benefits of working in Seoul mean not only that I can pay off my debts, but that I can afford to travel all over Asia whenever I get the chance. Plus, I have a lot of friends here and I am only just starting to feel at home. There is more time to be put into Seoul.

The frigid winter winds also coerced me to start thinking about my winter vacation. Yes, that's right, two months after my last two week vacation I am planning the next (why is it I want to stay??). I found out I have 17 days off starting on Christmas Eve, not coincidentally the same 17 days that Lacy will be off work. So, we've booked a flight to the sunny blue skies and crystal clear waters of Boracay in the Philippines. Flights are cheap and the living is easy, so it was a simple decision.

We want a nice tropical vacation to take us away from the winter chill, but we also need to conserve cash. Why? Well here is next year's plan, still in the works:

After our vacation, winter camp begins. Between Christmas and the end of February, there is only a week and a half of regular classes, the rest being various English camps (and often half days). My contract ends at the end of February and I plan on switching to a new school so that I can get a shared apartment with Lacy who will also be staying another year. Living alone has definitely had its perks, but living far enough from my best friends that I don't get to see them during the week has been a bummer. Being able to come home and cook dinner with Lacy and take classes together will be such a nice change!

Another development is that we are trying to get a job beginning in April so that we can take our end of the year bonuses and go backpacking for a month in Vietnam, Cambodia and Laos. We figure one of the huge advantages of our job is the flexibility and if we have the ability to do this we can't pass it up. How amazing it would be!! I'm crossing my fingers that it all works out.

So that is the plan, I mean scheme, as of right now. I'm working with a recruiter at the moment to make it all happen and until then I'll just keep living the dream.

Bringing it back to the present, we went on a teacher's hike today on Surisan (Suri Mountain). I thought a "teacher's hike" meant just going for a nature walk, but I was so very wrong. We scaled a beast of a mountain! As we climbed teachers began to drop out, but I was determined to prove yet again that foreigners are not inept, so not only was I going to the top, I was going to be one of the first to get there. Our principal led the way, I assume as a symbolic act, but even though he was the oldest one there, he could really move! After mistakenly believing I had arrived at the summit several times, only to turn and climb more, I made it to the top panting and sweating and was greeted with high fives and looks of astonishment (yes, foreigners can climb). Cell phones were whipped out for pictures, and celebratory cups of makkoli (a milky Korean rice wine) and fresh cucumbers were passed around to "rehydrate." And, even after nine months, they squealed with delight when I said "kamsamnida" (thank you) when they passed me a cup.

After the hike I had my Korean class and then I had to teach an evening class for second graders. At the moment I am exhausted and sore and a little worried about my stamina for this weekend's hiking trip to Seoraksan National Park. I'm excited to enjoy the outdoors in one of Korea's most beautiful areas, however, before winter sets in for good.

Heartbreakers

2009-11-03T00:58:00.003-05:00

I just came back from watching my school's 4th Grade Talent Show wearing a huge smile. Not only is fourth grade the absolute best age to teach, most of my individual favorites come from that grade as well. They are still unaffected by the insecurities of puberty but they're old enough to joke around with me and make me laugh.

The half dozen recorder performances were as to be expected... inhumane, but there were some great song and dance routines to all the current KPop. Of course there was a taekwondo performance (for all you non-Koreans its pronounced TAY-kwondo, not THAI-kwondo) in which the students broke boards with their hands. I felt the boards after and I must say, I was pretty impressed. To cap it off was a little piano prodigy.

My absolute favorite, however... by far... was the three boys who did a jump rope dance routine (that's right) to KPop favorite, Heart breaker. Not only was it original, they were unbelievably good at it. I really hope they weren't forced into hours of practice for weeks on end by overeager parents. They really seemed to enjoy it, so I'm thinking not. My heart didn't break, it melted. Once again, I love my job. If only I had brought my camera!!

2009-11-01T19:32:00.001-05:00

Perhaps a little harsh, but an interesting article on race in Korea.

New York Times Article - Race in Korea

2009-10-29T00:25:00.001-04:00

Some days I walk out of my apartment and I see a bunch of Korean people and Korean writing. Then I think, "Oh yeah, I'm in Korea."

Beauty and the Bento Box

2009-10-19T19:59:00.011-04:00

(Photos not mine)

Today I came across an interesting discussion in the New York Times entitled, "Beauty and the Bento Box." It was a follow up to an article on these artful Japanese lunch boxes featuring several experts weighing in on the question:

"What does the care devoted to the visual details in a packed lunch suggest
about the culture? Why is such value placed on aesthetics in everyday life
in Japan?"

Due to recent travels I've developed an interest in the beautifully delicate Japanese aesthetic, so I've decided to make a short exploration of my own.

It seems that the Japanese aesthetic permeates nearly every aspect of culture on the island. It's concepts are rooted in a set of fundamental principles which are deeply ingrained in the collective consciousness. These principles manifest themselves in infinite forms, reaching all the way from the elaborate tea ceremonies to the aisles of the supermarket. Identifying these elements of style have allowed me to better understand the feelings of harmony, restraint and elegance I experienced even in the most unexpected places in Japan, as well as a method to introduce them into my own life.

Central to the appreciation of beauty in Japan is the concept of impermanence. Everything in this world, whether lovely or terrible will eventually fade away. Dwelling on this idea can lead to feelings of melancholy, but it also inspires gratitude for the moment. If all the world is ephemeral, then we must cherish it all the more. In the Bento Box we can see quite obviously a celebration of the fleeting. Just because food is impermanent is not a reason it should not and must not be beautiful. Everyday deserves wonder, no matter how routine.

Another important stylistic element is "simplicity" (known as wabi to the Japanese). The subtle grace of an object can add infinitely to its beauty. Additionally, this concept dictates moderation and restraint. One of the strengths of the Bento Box is that it makes food appear much more copious. Ginger curls into delicate flowers, salad is shredded and layered in contrasting hues, and each element is housed in its own space. When the lunch plate is an art form there is much more enjoyment in the process and therefore less need for abundance.

Finally, we come to the concept of mono no aware, or, "awareness of things." In the Japanese aesthetic there is an interconnectivity between all forms of art and intellectual pursuit. The cultivated individual must be skilled in many areas to truly attain greatness. Calligraphy, gardening, Haiku, cinema, and painting all depend upon and borrow from one another. Preparing food in such an elaborate way can show off such skills and be a credit to the one who has prepared it. And it appeals to the part of every person that reveres the beautiful.

These are just a few examples in a complex web of concepts which make up the Japanese artistic style and they are based upon my limited understanding. Even so, I can now look upon the iconic flower of Japan and Korea, the Cherry Blossom, with a new vision. It seems to be a perfect representation of these stylistic elements: beauty in grace and simplicity, imperfect and impermanent, unfurling to the height of loveliness before falling to decay. A perfect allegory for nearly everything.

References:

1. Parkes, Graham. "Japanese Aesthetics." Stanford Encyclopedia of Philosophy (Winter 2008). Edward N. Zalta (ed).

2. Aesthetics in Asia - Japan a>

Beautiful Busan

2009-10-19T05:55:00.009-04:00

Gwangalli Beach

Our romantical accomodations

The Bridge at night

Night at Gwangalli Beach

Kevin crosses through the window and into our lives

Noraebang!!

Don't mind if I do!

Busan - Future Home?

2009-10-19T02:50:00.005-04:00

After deciding to stay the night in Busan, we asked William for some advice on what to do. He recommended an inexpensive motel in Gwangalli Beach and gave us the phone number so our taxi driver could get directions. It turned out to be an adorable place with a view of the beach and at $40 bucks a night for all three of us, we were happy.

Gwangalli was supposed to have a decent nightlife, and though it was a Sunday, it was also a holiday weekend so we wanted to check it out. We took a stroll along the beach and admired a gorgeous bridge lit up in technicolor against the dark sea and sky. The bridge is just part of the reason why they call Busan "the San Francisco of Korea." After, we checked out the numerous cafes lining the shore and chose one to have dinner at.

We were only half way through dinner when the requisite group of crazy British boys invited us to check out a local bar. We headed over after we'd finished eating and had a few beers outside. All of a sudden a Korean man who had been observing us quite shamelessly handed me a pair of sunglasses and showed me his phone. It was open to a Korean-English dictionary and said "paying back a kindness; saying thank you." I was a bit confused but understood that he was trying to give the sunglasses as a gift (I later learned you got them free when you bought five Heinekens...). He introduced himself to our group as Kevin after we invited him outside to join us. He then proceeded to buy the six of us several rounds of beer.

Later on, Kevin asked us if we wanted to go to "a wine party." If the words "wine" and "party" are used in the same sentence, I am automatically in, so we followed him to the top floor of his hotel, where he rented out a noraebang. For those of you who are unfamiliar with this term, a noraebang is a Korean karaoke room. They are EVERYWHERE in this country and an absolute favorite of Koreans to end a night of drinking. Basically you rent a room, play music, act a fool, eat, and drink. I had never been to one because I hate singing in public, but in the interest of culture, spontaneity, and crazy fun, I figured it was time.

The room was huge, and featured a large screen and a huge table with about twenty chairs surrounding it. It seemed more like a board room than a party, but that quickly changed when Kevin started ordering bottles of wine, beers, and huge fruit and cheese platters. We started the music and shortly after the singing, dancing and tambourine playing commenced. The best part of all, however, had to be when Kevin started singing Korean slow jams.

We stumbled out into the street at about 4 am and the three of us passed out on our beautiful circular bed. In the morning we had coffee and sat on the beach. The weather was still warm enough for bathing suits, although too cold to swim in my opinion.

After lunch it was time to head back to Seoul, but I had really enjoyed Busan's laid back atmosphere. Seoul has so much to offer, but I seriously miss living by the ocean. The mild weather and beach bum lifestyle in Busan might be enough to have me considering a move next year. Thoughts??

Japan Photos

2009-10-13T04:19:00.015-04:00

Beautiful Tsushima

So Fresh

Tissue Paper Mountains

Our Campsite

Clear Waters

Blues and Greens

On the Road

Paper Shades and our Balcony View

Playing Geisha

Our Reward

Japanese Harbor

A day at the beach

Tsushima, Japan Bike Trip

2009-10-13T02:11:00.004-04:00

Although I can't get enough of the night life in Seoul, my friends and I decided we needed to take a break and get in touch with nature. The four day weekend we had for Chuseok (Korean Thanksgiving) at the beginning of October was the perfect opportunity to get away from the city.

We checked out our favorite travel group on meetup.com and discovered a biking trip to Tsushima, Japan that sounded amazing. It was being planned and led by William, the lovely guy who planned our Jeju trip, so we knew it would be great.

Tsushima is a small island that while part of Japan, is actually closer to Korea. It takes about 2 hours by ferry from the port city of Busan, located on Korea's southeast coast. It has a subtropical climate and its economy is based mainly upon the abundant supply of fish in the surrounding blue-green ocean. The same crystal clear waters also attract tourists from South Korea who help to supplement the marine economy.

After catching a bus to Busan late Thursday night, we'd be picking up our bikes upon arrival and bringing them over to the island on the ferry. They would be our only means of transportation on the mountainous 700 square kilometer island. We planned to arrive on the southern end of the island and leave from the north, so for this trip, the lazy need not apply.

The first day we had a lunch of supermarket sushi that blew the sushi I've eaten in most restaurants out of the water. We also spent about a half hour roaming the Japanese beer aisle, ecstatically checking prices. It's the best beer around in my opinion, but its completely over priced in Korea. We spent the second half of the day on a 20 km bike, but we were totally unprepared from the arduous inclines that dominated the trail. After some consideration of our time constraints, we had opted for the shorter of the two routes leading to our campsite. This turned out to be a great decision as those who had gone on the longer route eventually had to abandon their progress and loop back around to the shorter road, arriving at the tents long after dark.

That night we lit a campfire, played some music, and enjoyed some more sushi and beer. We all had sore limbs and bums, so it wasn't long before I grew tired and went to sleep. There was a full day of biking ahead after all and we wanted to get an early start.

The island was truly beautiful, with 89% of its land covered in lush green forest. Towering mountains and rugged cliffs carve a dramatic landscape surrounded by sparkling ocean the color of emeralds. Nearly every time I looked above me I would see huge predatory birds soaring silently over head. It was fantastic, never in my life had I seen such a dynamic and lively sky.

After hours in our seats, the 50 km we needed to cover that day began to take its toll. We quickly realized we wouldn't be finding any restaurants to stop in and settled for an ice cream bar and banana to get us through the ride. It was a tough 6 hour work out with stops few and far between, but I felt inspired by what I saw around me. I was basking in the challenge.

I could taste the fresh sashimi and cold beer awaiting me at the endpoint. The smell of the ocean breeze at our seaside motel danced around my nostrils and the feel of the hot sauna water played on my skin as my legs pumped up each hill. The descents were exhilarating. I let my tires spin wildly, the cool air sweeping back my hair as the world passed me by in a blur. I had found that feeling that I am constantly seeking, that feeling of being alive.

All of the beautiful things I imagined awaited me and more. Draped in soft cotton kimonos, we watched the sun set against the purple sky and stared into the golden shimmer of the moon as it reflected on the sea. We sank deep into pillows and blankets laid out on the floor and sipped fresh green tea until we drifted into a peaceful sleep, only to be awoken to witness the sun rise again over the ocean. After, we enjoyed a traditional Japanese breakfast of fish, miso soup, rice and seaweed.

After spending the morning at the beach, we boarded the ferry again feeling triumphant and completely refreshed. So much so, in fact, that Lacy, Maddy and I decided to spend an extra night in Busan. We still had another day off and, as Maddy rightly argued, we had always wanted to explore the city.

So much for a weekend without city mayhem...

Sunset-Sunrise Over Japan

2009-10-07T10:07:00.011-04:00

From my sixth grade text book...

2009-09-25T00:18:00.002-04:00

Cultural Gestures:

Thumbs Up

It means "ok", "number one", "president" (???), "best" etc.

Thumbs Down

It means "negation", "objection", "kill", etc.

Not exactly how I'd put it, but...

Summer Camp Pics I Never Posted

2009-09-23T06:05:00.009-04:00

The kids felt this poor dog needed a mohawk

The dog definitely looks happy about it.

My 3rd graders sponge painting at school camp

My City Summer Camp kids brought me a present. Teacher really loved it...

View from my kitchen at City Summer Camp

Funny Face Sandwich Day!!

Proud Student- They all wanted a picture with their sandwiches

Instructions: Draw an Under the Sea scene

My 3rd graders are pretty creative

Swine Flu Mania

2009-09-20T20:33:00.006-04:00

Swine flu has long faded from World headlines, but the hysteria is alive and well in Korea. The day after returning home from my two week vacation, I sat in bed expecting to begin work the next morning, a Friday. I received a call from my co teacher, however, informing me that because I had left the country my vice-principal was afraid I'd caught swine flu. I needed to stay home for the next week because "symptoms take seven days" to appear. An extra week's paid vacation?? Okay! See you next Friday...

Upon returning to school I discovered that all the students were having their temperatures checked daily. In addition, all field trips and festivals had been postponed or canceled. I was advised by my school to "just stay in your apartment" all weekend (Ha!) and to avoid Emart. I just smiled and nodded, as I find this the easiest response to anything ridiculous my school asks of me.

Face masks are back out in full force and today I noticed the addition of large machines in the hallways labeled "Hand Washing" in English. They are the size of small refrigerators but I'm pretty sure all they do is spray hand sanitizer. I didn't test them because I am fervently against hand sanitizer as a means of hygiene. I really resent how this epidemic is going to make people overdoes on anti-bacterials, leading to the evolution of antibody resistant super germs that are going to make me sick in the future.

And, no, that's not paranoia... that's just science.

UPDATE: I have also learned that there are in fact 6 steps to properly washing your hands. Who knew it could be so complicated? My hands have never actually been clean before today...

Also, the government has decided to abandon the quarantine policy. They finally realized its completely ineffectual. It was great while it lasted, but some of us worried it would make our schools try to prevent us from traveling so I'm glad they've reconsidered.

Thailand Part 6: Koh Phi Phi

2009-09-17T03:20:00.011-04:00

Paradise on the horizon

Ferry to Koh Phi Phi after a long night of travel

Thai Boats in crystal clear water

view from the beach

a walk on the beach

Thai boxing at the Reggae Bar

Sunset over Bangkok

Reluctantly, we left Koh Phangan and headed by bus to Krabi port and then by ferry toward the final leg of our journey: a short three night stay on Koh Phi Phi.

Koh Phi Phi, located on Thailand's southwest coast, is most famous as the filming location for the movie The Beach. With its limestone cliffs, coral reefs and white sandy beaches, Phi Phi is considered by many to be one of the most beautiful islands in the world. In fact, its stunning natural landscape is protected by National Park status. Phi Phi's popularity among travelers has been rising during the past decade. During the 2004 Tsunami, however, the island was devastated. Reconstruction is nearly complete although still underway and evidence of the tsunami's physical and emotional aftermath is scattered over the island. It is once again a buzzing tourist destination, however.

Because of its location on Thailand's west coast, the rainy season last a bit longer on Phi Phi, so we experienced some wet weather. We arrived, however, to clear skies, shimmering turquoise seas and brightly painted huts and fishing boats. It was a true tropical paradise that completely lived up to its name. A fitting end to an amazing trip.

We expected Koh Phi Phi to be full of pricey resorts and upscale tourists, but instead we found a vibrant backpacking culture. We fit right in, picking up where we'd left off in Koh Phangan and meeting some interesting people to pass the time with. When it rained we relaxed in our bungalow and when the sun shone we sat by the sea with a Singha. Life was good for the next few nights, but everything comes to an end eventually.

We made our way back to Bangkok without sadness, however. The trip had been everything I could have asked for and I was ready to return to my home and my friends in Seoul. After a whirlwind night in Bangkok where I managed to get all of my money, cards, and documents stolen and then recovered, I hopped my flight home. I'm halfway through my contract now, and I'm ready to start part 2 (plus the one year extension I plan to add after that...)

Thailand Part 5: Sak Yant

2009-09-17T00:45:00.008-04:00

In the midst of it all

Om and his handy work

My beautiful new tattoo

close up

Sak Yant is a form of sacred tattooing practiced in Thailand. They are normally tattooed by Buddhist monks and the designs date back to Ankgor times (800-1200 A.D.) when they were received by masters through visions. The tattoos are sutras made up of writing and geometric patterns and are meant to protect those bearing them from bodily or spiritual harm. Thus they have been very popular among the military and muay thai fighters.

The tattoos are applied using a bamboo rod, a technique which is about 3,000 years old. A fine needle is attached to the rod and then tapped into the skin. Because the skin is punctured and not torn as it is with a gun tattoo, the healing process is quite different. Pain is reduced and there is no bleeding or scabbing. The entire healing process only takes about four days and there is no need to cover the tattoo or avoid the sun or sea. Another benefit is the color tends to stay strong much longer with a bamboo tattoo.

I decided that I wanted one six months ago during my first visit to Thailand. It's hard to explain but there is something special about the connection one develops with this country. By my last count I've been to 17 countries, some that I have loved very deeply, but I have never felt such a deep bond between traveler and place. The rest of the world seems to melt away while you are there. There is no yesterday or tomorrow, no sense of urgency or stress. Life feels simple, all you need is a nice place to rest, a bit of shade, and some good food to eat. The needs and desires of everyday life, particularly for the material, fade into the background. Time passes only with the rising and setting sun.

I wanted to keep a small piece of that feeling with me, to remember who I am when it's all stripped away. I loved the beauty of the art and I wanted it all to be a part of me. So after discussing it with Om, our tattoo artist and finding the perfect design for me, I felt completely confident. I couldn't be happier with the way it turned out.

Most people want to know if it hurt. It didn't. It was more of an annoying "quit poking me with that needle for an hour" sensation. The placement of my tattoo was also not in a sensitive area (unlike Maddy who got one on her side, right over her rib cage). The discomfort was over in under an hour anyway, and it felt like a rite of passage.

My tattoo is supposed to bring harmony, safety and luck to me and those closest to me. I don't believe that anything in this world can protect you from all harm, nor would I want complete immunity, but so far my tattoo seems to be working its magic. It helps me remember, it protects me from lives I don't want.

Thailand Part 4: Koh Phangan

2009-09-15T02:03:00.011-04:00

Party time

Max! The Shaman

Our little piece of heaven

Haad Rin Beach

The view from our porch

Our favorite hangout

Koh Phangan is a larger island south of Koh Tao. Its mainly known for its Full Moon Parties at Haad Rin Beach. Then there's the Half Moon Parties, Black Moon Parties... basically there are a lot of parties. Predictably, the feel is very different from Koh Tao, and interestingly the look is quite different as well.

We weren't going to be in Koh Phangan for the Full Moon Party, but we wanted to stay at the beach where it all went down anyway. We were hungry and tired so we stopped at the first few bungalows that we saw. Fortuitously, they were all out of our price range or fully booked. Feeling a bit irritated, we trekked up the famed Mellow Mountain and walked straight into our own paradise.

High on a rocky cliff side overlooking the infinite turquoise sea and white sand beach sat our new home, a tidy little bungalow complete with wrap around porch, hammock and refreshing ocean breeze, all for the lovely price of $3 a night each. When the man showed it to us and asked if it was alright, I couldn't help but cry, "I'm so happy!" My outburst and the dreamy look on my face seemed to startle him a bit, but it didn't matter, I'd found heaven.

We spent the next week lost in a haze of happiness shuttling between our bed, the hammock, the beach, and our favorite restaurant where we could get green curry, mango lassis, and fried bananas while watching Family Guy. We never wanted to leave and as the days faded in and out we wavered on our plans to get to Koh Phi Phi. We heard it was the most beautiful spot in all of Thailand, but life was just so good.

Not to mention the new friends we had made on our mountain paradise. Max, a 38 year old Thai guy who owned the Mountain Bar conveniently located a few flights down from us had become our new buddy. He was a good friend to have, interesting, funny and always willing to share. He invited us to hang out with his friends on his birthday and we passed a crazy night taking shots in the bar while he blatantly ignored his customers. Max was living the dream. Spending all day and night chilling out on the mountainside. We would regularly find him fast asleep on mats in the bar when we finally left our bungalow around noon each day.

While his dream would continue, we knew ours wouldn't last forever. Max wouldn't give me a job in the bar and our trip back to Seoul was looming ahead. It was time to move on and see what all the fuss with Koh Phi Phi was about... but not before a little stop in a bamboo tattoo parlor...

Thailand Part 3: Koh Tao

2009-09-10T00:11:00.008-04:00

in our bungalow

Sunset with Thai fishing boats

Enjoying the view and some curry at a beach bar

morning in Koh Tao

I was happy to be able to spend a night in Koh Tao and get a feel for the island. The smallest of the trio it makes up with Koh Samui and Koh Phangan, Koh Tao appears the most raw and natural of the three. Thin bands of yellow sand ring the coastlines, separating the emerald ocean from the rugged tropical forest by mere yards. Bungalows and beach bars have gradually overtaken the edges of the forest, while a bustling town and snaking roads have filled in the interior.

About 21 square kilometers in size, the island was given its name, meaning Turtle Island, because of its shape. It is, coincidentally, also a breeding ground for several species of turtle. The island's main draw is diving, however, and everywhere you go you overhear people discussing the day's diving conditions.

I didn't do any diving on my trip, but I would like to return to Koh Tao one day to get my certification. The courses are inexpensive and the setting is perfect. I would love to get a glimpse of the whale sharks silently roaming offshore. They are a relatively common sight in the surrounding waters.

After a night out that ended with me asleep on the beach while Maddy talked with the friends she had made over the past week, we hopped a ferry back to Koh Phangan. Koh Tao had a laid back, natural vibe, but I was ready for the excitement of the larger island. Watching my first taste of the islands recede against the horizon, I felt completely at ease. We had no plans or obligations for the rest of our trip and certainly no idea we'd be spending the better part of the next week lost in paradise. ..

Thailand Part 2: Moving South

2009-09-06T21:09:00.010-04:00

My route to Koh Tao... went to Surat Thani when I could've just gone to Chumphon, but no harm done. It was a good trip.

A view of Bangkok

View from the train as the sun rose

Ferry to the islands

First glimpse of paradise

On the train to Suratthani I was seated across from a handsome Iranian muay thai fighter named Amil. I quickly discovered he was quite the talker, and I learned all about his life over a delicious Thai dinner that he ordered for us.

He had been living, working and fighting in Bangkok for eight years now, and although he didn't say it, I got the impression that he's very good at what he does. I've always found it interesting that all of the boxers I have ever met are the gentlest people outside of the ring. Not only did he have great stories to tell, but he was amazingly curteous to everyone around him. He told me he had just been accepted as a contestant on The Contender Asia and he hoped to use the TV program to help bridge the divide between Iranians and Americans. His goal was to fight an American and knock him out... not because he hates Americans, but because doing so would ensure the American fighter would invite him to the U.S. for a rematch. Amil wanted to befriend the American after the fight and show the world that there could be peace between members of both countries.

He told me he was extremely happy to be having dinner with an American and promised he was going to mention our meal on the show. I'm going to have to watch it to see if he really meant it. He also talked about his family for a while. He told me his mother was learning English and that she wanted to come to Thailand to see him, even though he goes home a few times a year. When I mentioned I was an English teacher he immediately took out his phone and said he was going to call his mother. I thought it was a joke until he handed me the phone and a sweet woman with surprisingly good English began talking. Life is so strangely wonderful sometimes. I never imagined that I'd be sitting across from a professional fighter on a train through Thailand talking on the phone with a woman in Iran. I even have an invitation to visit their home. I might have to take her up on it sometime, although Amil advises I put it off a few years.

I began to grow very tired at around 11 pm, so I climbed into bed and slept soundly until we arrived at the station at 6 am. From there we took a bus to the ferry port.

Koh Samui, Koh Tao, and Koh Phangan are islands off the southeast coast of Thailand that are popular among backpackers for their diving, parties and close proximity to one another. Island hopping is easy, and travelers rarely visit just one of the islands. Each has its own appeal and vibe, however, attracting a slightly different set with its unique scenery and atmosphere.

I was supposed to meet Maddy and Andrew in Koh Phangan and was going to arrive at about noon. It was a beautiful day and the ocean was calm so I enjoyed the ride staring out into paradise under the hot afternoon sun. Amil got off at Koh Samui, where he was meeting a fellow fighter to do some training. We said goodbye and I promised to watch him on the Contender when it aired in late fall.

I arrived in Koh Phangan and headed to an Internet cafe. When I checked my email, however, I discovered a message from Maddy saying that she and Andrew had not left Kho Tao as planned and wouldn't be able to meet me until the following day. By this point I was a little burned out on traveling solo, so I decided, what the hell? I'll take the two hour ferry ride to Kho Tao and find them. I had the name of their bungalows, and I figured they couldn't be that hard to track down. This meant, however, that I had done a complete circle of the islands. Kho Tao is the farthest to the north of a little group of islands and I could have taken a shorter train trip and saved a bunch of time.... oh well, it was a good trip and I wouldn't have changed it.

I arrived in Kho Tao around 3 o'clock and headed to their bungalows. I figured I would find Maddy's towel hanging on the front porch if they weren't down by the beach and that's exactly what happened. They weren't there so I decided to wait down by the ocean until they came back. The water was crystal clear, the island was gorgeous, and I couldn't have been in a better mood. Five minutes after I'd started swimming I saw Maddy and Andrew walking up the beach. Of course I decided to creep up on them as awkwardly as possible then run at them from the ocean. We had a glorious reunion as if we hadn't seen each other in years rather than days and caught each other up on our adventures.

Now that we were back together, things were about to get interesting...

Thailand Part 1: Solo in Bangkok

2009-09-03T10:38:00.009-04:00

My very first Samsong bucket in Thailand (well this trip anyway)

with Dan

It's so true... beverage cart on Khaosan Road

My fabulous driver and his tuk tuk

The Golden Buddha

I haven't been able to write a thing. I've literally done nothing for a week during my quarantine, but I just couldn't write. There is too much to say. I think I am going to have to write a series of shorter posts so that I don't feel overwhelmed.

Let's start with that incredible feeling on my last day of summer camp. My kids got away with everything that day because I was already sipping buckets with Maddy on a tropical island in my mind. After camp, I booked it home to finish getting ready and headed off to the airport to begin the first leg of my epic journey: solo in Bangkok.

My original plan was to get into BKK at around 1 am and meet up with some friends and spend the night with them. Well, those plans changed when I came out of immigration at 4 am and found out the airport was two hours from their apartment. Instead, I did the only rational thing, which was to go to Khaosan road and drink to avoid paying for a hotel room.

My first lungful of the stench of Bangkok was glorious. Cockroaches scuttered on the sidewalks, farangs and Thais wandered about drunkenly, and I felt at home! The streets were pretty empty by this point, so I parked myself at a nice outdoor patio and ordered a Singha... aaaah Thai beer crushes shitty Korean beer any day of the week.

I really enjoy traveling alone because it is basically like walking around with a sign that says "I want to be friends with you!!!!" Within two minutes I was taking tequila shots with some really funny British guys who were sitting at the table next to me. It was 5 am and we were having a blast. All I could think was, "It's day one, the adventure is beginning... AND I'M GETTING PAID FOR THIS!"

I separated from the boys at about 9 and went to find some breakfast... coffee, fresh fruit and yogurt. Beautiful. I decided to spring for an individual room because I was dreaming of a nice hot shower and a rest. The first hotel that would let me check in at 10 became my new home. Then, after my shower I wandered Khaosan and took in the chaos. After about 80 tuk tuk drivers offered me a ride (a tuk tuk is a little taxi that is kind of like a tripod motorbike... love them!) I decided a little drive around would be nice. I found a nice guy who was going to take me to a few temples for an hour or two for the steep price of 40 baht ($1).

I saw some beautiful temples and the driver was really cool, plus I just like driving around the city catching a breeze and escaping the heat. You never escape the hustle in Bangkok though and I was taken to two tourist agencies where I had to make up fake questions so my driver could get a free gas card. Then we stopped by to see his "friend" at a tailor shop. If you have ever been to Bangkok you know it is just brimming with people trying to custom make clothes for you. If you are in the market, its amazing - great clothes for real cheap. If you aren't, it's just kind of annoying. Eventually we made it back to Khaosan, however, where I vastly overpaid my adorable driver and promptly ran into my new British friends in the street.

So, it was off for a bite to eat and a few beers, after which we snuck into a rooftop pool and drank fresh coconut juice while we had a swim. Later on I met up with some friends I had met last time I was in Thailand and we went out for some drinks and dancing at Gulliver's. They're teachers in Bangkok, so the next day I went to hang out at one of their apartments to have a relaxing day before my journey south. I was shocked at how nice their places were. They live about an hour north of the city and we had a good laugh when all the Thai people in the neighborhood were pointing and staring at me. I don't think they get many blond farang women in that part of town.

I took a taxi to the train station in the evening and found out I could get a spot on a sleeper... but it was going to leave in two minutes. An incredibly competent (thank you thank you) information lady dragged me to the ticket office, got my tickets, and ran with me to the train where I hopped on the last car with about 30 seconds to spare. Mission accomplished, I was on my way south to find Maddy and her friend from home, Andrew. Paradise awaits, as does the rest of this story...

A Photographic Preview

2009-08-27T01:43:00.008-04:00

A glimpse of my time in paradise... Koh Tao, Koh Phangan, Koh Phi Phi. I just found out I have another week off of work because I am on quarantine so many more updates are to come...

2009-08-12T11:42:00.003-04:00

Summer, that perpetual sneak, has breezed past me yet again in a blur of heat, haze, and sun (sometimes). Teaching summer camp has been a welcome break from the monotony of the national curriculum. Although it is more work, I have enjoyed having complete control over my lessons. I have been able to teach topics like camping, baseball, pirates, oceans, drama, and super heroes. My students and I have played games, sponge painted, written stories, listened to music, and created our own TV commercials. We even had a game of handball out on the playground.

The last week of July I taught at an overnight Gunpo City summer camp for five days. I stayed in a cabin in the mountains and taught cooking class. Making homemade ice cream with 75 students is a complete mess, but its a fun and delicious one. I was exhausted at the end of the week, but I really felt like I bonded with the students there and I had a great time hanging out with the other councilors.

Outside of school I have been spending lazy afternoons by the pool or listening to the drum of the rain on my apartment window. I've gone river rafting, bungee jumping, and to a Manchester United vs. Seoul football game that had Maddy and I ecstatic for the entire game. We couldn't help but join in on the "Fighting!" cheers and the calls for South Korean Manchester United player Park Ji Sung, who sat on the bench until the final 20 minutes. That didn't stop the camera man from showing his face on the big screen every 5 minutes, however. South Koreans sure love their own. Another highlight was when Kpop girl group Girls' Generation performed at halftime. It was a complete surprise and even with several lip synching mishaps, it was awesome!

Vacation time is staggered throughout the summer so there are always friends coming and going on two week adventures. I've had to wait until the very end for mine, but I am finally taking off for Thailand tomorrow. Don't expect any posts for the next two weeks, but expect that when one does come it will be epic!

Bungeeeee!

2009-08-07T17:45:00.003-04:00

FIGHTING!

2009-08-03T01:09:00.005-04:00

Let me start off by saying that bungee jumping is not fun...

... It's awesome! Still, I stand by my first statement. It really isn't fun. You get off a bus on top of a bridge and climb a tower until you are standing on a platform 52 meters above a river. Tiny people dot the banks waiting to watch you plummet towards the water as you flail and scream helplessly. You can't help but wonder why we humans feel the need to do things like this. Did I mention that 52 meters is approximately 15 stories?

To rewind for a second I should tell you that as a child I was afraid of everything. Really... EVERYTHING... sky rides, roller coasters, downhill skiing, bees... ESCALATORS. I had to work really hard to become a thrill seeker, but this time I was really testing my limits. So when after watching my friends dive off the ledge and scream bloody murder my number was up, I hated myself just a little. I edged closer to my executioner - I mean "the bungee dude" - and as he tried to attach a giant hook to my back I asked him (through gestures due to the language barrier) why my harness was so loose.

"OOOOH Riiiiiight, I should probably tighten that!" he seemed to gesture back. I then pulled on the harness to show him that it was going to go around my neck and choke me to death. When I put my hands around my neck and made a gagging face I caught the attention of the other bungee dude. His eyes opened wide and he rushed over. Turns out they had put my harness on the wrong way. Greaaat. I was feeling really confident at this point. I then had to make them tighten the leg harnesses. Good job guys.

Finally I was hooked up to the chord and they pushed the slack over the ledge and told me to go stand at the edge.

Wait! No! I don't want to stand over the edge, I don't want to look I just want to close my eyes and run off. They told me I couldn't do this and this time I hated them a little.

"Toes" they said. I edged closer. Why oh why was I doing this? I was afraid to fall off of the very ledge I was about to throw myself off of. It made no sense. I finally had my toes curled over the edge of the platform, but I didn't realize I was clutching the railing. "No touch" they said. It took every ounce of courage in me to let go. "Okay, three, two, one BUNGEE!" said the bungee dude wayyy too quickly. I turned around. The other jumpers had told me they would count for me and damn it, I needed the support. I knew, however, that when they reached one I had to jump. No hesitation. No matter what I was jumping off this platform and if I waited I would only prolong the agony. Sure enough when they reached one I leaped (okay maybe I spasmed) off the edge.

No words can describe what it feels like to plummet towards the ground but I'll do my best. All of my insides seemed to occupy the space that my lungs normally inhabit. I started to scream but it was abruptly cut off. Air was rushing out of my mouth but the sound was gone. I remember thinking that it was weird in between trying to crawl into my happy place. Then, suddenly I was flying upwards and I was screaming again. Loudly. Going up is strange because you really can't feel the movement. When you are high enough that you can't judge your distance above the ground you just feel like you are staying still. I really thought for a moment that I was suspended in the air. It felt really great until I realized I was going to fall again.

I had bounced high enough to look down at the bridge again. I cursed elasticity and shrieked my way through several more drops. When it was over I hung helplessly by my bungee chord until I was lowered into a waiting boat. My legs were shaking so hard I couldn't even stand as he unhooked me. All I could think was, "I did it! I did it and now it's over!" I was high on adrenaline and fear and the new sensation that is free falling. In the end, that's probably why we force ourselves to do things like this - the novelty. I didn't actually want to jump off that bridge but the idea that so many people have and I had no idea what it felt like killed me. So now I'm part of the club and can move on with my life until the next new sensation beckons. Plus I've got a great video of my jump, which I will try to upload eventually but you can see on facebook now if you are friends with me. I look like a deranged spider...

Here I Stand

2009-07-21T02:04:00.007-04:00

I had a few reservations regarding our end of the semester teacher's trip. After all, I'm the only foreign, non-Korean speaking teacher at the school, so these gatherings require some effort. This time around, my co teacher would not be attending because she had to take care of her children. She gave me the option to attend the trip or remain at school for the day - anti-social and alone. Despite my slight fear of the prospect of 12 hours of incomprehension, I refused to peg myself as the outsider and decided to attend.

For no apparent reason except bad luck, I couldn't sleep at all the night before the trip. I arrived at school hot, sweaty, tired, and unenthused. Nevertheless I was early and my poor start to the day declined further when I turned my key in the classroom door and it snapped off in the lock. Great...

At 10 am I boarded the bus and sat next to one of the teachers on my floor who speaks English very well. Song Hwa is a kind and very beautiful wife and mother in her thirties and I enjoy speaking with her, but I was mainly happy that the teachers didn't just avoid me so they wouldn't have to speak in English the whole ride. When the bus set off, bottles of Korean wine were immediately opened. Korean adults can be a bit like high school students - Summer vacation wooo!

Two hours later we arrived at the ferry which would take us across the Han River to Nami Island. Ropes swung high atop a bungee tower and motorboats skimmed across the river towing massive yellow inflatables which flapped like kites in the breeze. Mountains rolled on the horizon like waves of soft green forest beneath the afternoon sun as the ferry made the short crossing.

Sunshine and a soft breeze graced us with their presence as I explored the island with Song Hwa and Jong Hwi, a tall and lovely teacher who strikes me as regal but always entertains me with the latest gossip. There were footpaths lined with tall pines snaking all over the small island and we followed them leisurely until it was time to catch the ferry back to the mainland.

The next stop was the somewhat random "Le Petit France" - a small group of buildings built to look like French villas and housing tributes to various aspects of french culture. I couldn't quite figure out what was going on or why the melodies to Beatles songs were playing on all the speakers but we were atop a hill and there was a lovely view of the river and mountains. Unfortunately I had forgotten to charge my camera and only managed to take a few photos. I did however pose in countless pictures with the other teachers, most in front of a statue of the storybook character "Le Petit Prince" and they've assured me they will email me copies.

At this point I was near exhaustion and we headed to a restaurant for what would be one of the best meals I have ever had the fortune of eating. After discovering that the restaurant we were supposed to go to was closed, we walked towards the shore and stopped at a small outdoor patio to enjoy a dinner of fresh eel.

The sun sunk low against the sky and the air grew thick with mist as plates of salmon sashimi arrived at the tables. We ate the fish slices wrapped in lettuce leaves with fresh ginger and an array of vegetables. Next came the eel. It was grilled in brown sugar and melted as soon as it reached your mouth, every bite tasting better than the last. I thought I couldn't eat anymore but steaming pots of spicy soup arrived brimming with shellfish and vegetables. My skin flushed as I ate spoonfuls of the spicy liquid, warming me as the air cooled and the night mist rolled in over the moonstone river.

Finally there were slices of fresh watermelon and small cups of coffee to go around. We finished our meal and were drawn silently to the shore of the river. The mountains were layers of tissue in cerulean, cobalt, slate and steel. They melted into the soft night air and multiplied to infinity in the glassy river surface. I stood silently a long while and remembered what it is so easy to forget in the city, that I am here, in the land of the morning calm, experiencing life and beauty as I have never known it before. And though the mist obscured my vision, turning the world to watercolor, I felt I could see clearer than I've been able to in a while. I remembered why I came here and what I've been missing and made a silent promise to return.

Listen and Repeat.... Cuuuuuuute

2009-07-16T10:25:00.010-04:00

Some photos from the last day of my extra classes with the first graders. Sadly, they didn't give me one as a consolation prize. Enjoy the pure cuteness below...

I have no problem choosing favorites and "Tiger" was definitely it. He was possibly crazy, loved to dance, and sometimes hit me... aaah kids.

More Tiger. Look at that face!

Surprise! A camera!

It wouldn't be Korea without a peace sign!

And again... what a munchkin!

the boys eating pizza slices bigger than their faces and drowning it with coca cola. Korean kids always share with Teacher though, wish I had a photo of the kid who came up to me with a giant slice hanging way above his head...precious.

This never gets old for them.

I live in Korea and this is what I do...

2009-07-14T09:55:00.012-04:00

I act Korean while riding carnival rides at Mud Festival

I hang with the locals

I make new friends

I drink and bike.

I eat lunch on the floor and drink Cass-uh after a long bike ride with the girls

I dominate wheelbarrow races... okay so maybe I lose them

I put the A in Athlete (along with the rest of the A Team)

I Tug-o-War

I haven't updated in a while... I like to think this is because I am busy and not because I am lazy... or because I have become obsessed with watching episodes of The Tudors and True Blood online...

In any case, I still love my life. I even still sometimes randomly yell out "I love my life!" when the mood strikes me. Even the torrential downpours that have begun this week can't dampen my spirits. The school semester is over and I'm spending the week watching Harry Potter over and over and over while preparing for summer camp. Not exactly ingredients for stress. I'll only be working half days during the summer and then I get two weeks vacation in August, so yes, life is good.

The warm, and up until recently, reasonably dry weather has made my friends and I more determined to get out and have fun. It seems like most expats around here have the same idea. Two weekends ago, on the fourth of July, a friend of ours threw a sports day. We made teams and competed in some ridiculous relay races. My team, the A team, performed pretty badly aside from a few glorious victories. We did have the best outfits though, which I think is more important.

This past weekend was the Boryeong Mud Festival. Picture this: a huge crowd of foreigners, a beach, mud pits, mud slides and booze... I think you get the picture. It was tons of fun, but unfortunately due to the aforementioned mud I was too afraid to bring my camera out... sad. Rest assured I did end up muddied from head to toe and I did beat up some people.

There are more exciting things to come... a Manchester United vs Seoul football game... river rafting and bungee jumping (finally)... a music festival... and just general madness in the city. Whoever said "the real world" is no fun was obviously living in the wrong one.

Miguk / Hanguk

2009-07-01T01:59:00.005-04:00

So today is the first day of month 5 in Korea which is the ending of my first semester as a teacher. I never imagined that life would turn out so well, but so far its been five months of easy going contentment spiked with moments of hilarity and excitement. I've traveled to a few places in Korea (including the beautiful Honeymoon Island), been to Taipei and am currently planning my summer vacation in Thailand. I've been hiking, biking, bar hopping, sight seeing, festival going and just generally having a laugh with the girls (sometimes we let the boys come too). Unfortunately I have not yet been bungee jumping because after biking 40 km there weren't enough spots open so I have to wait. We were bitter enough about it to bike the 20 km home with more than a few Cass under our belts but it was a gorgeous day and I can't complain. On a side note it looks like a ridiculous amount of fun and I am going back as soon as possible.

I have been enjoying some great perks at my job such as half-day Wednesdays which will soon turn into "half-day every days" during summer vacation (and the even longer winter vacay!). Other perks include surprise watermelon eating fests, field trips and guaranteed hilarious englishee mishaps at least twice a week. The work weeks just seems to fly by and there is always something fun to look forward to on the weekend (for example, this week its a group adventure south to have a beach bbq for the 4th of july).

I've also begun to get serious about learning Korean. It no longer sounds so scary and foreign and now that I have learned to read and write speaking is getting easier. I have a class in my city once a week and my coteacher has been helping me as well. It is definitely slow going, but I feel like much less of a failure now that I am learning the basics.

So, yes, life is good and I am happy, but it's important to realize how fleeting this all is. Maybe in a way that's a part of why it feels so good. This is not a life I'll have forever and even while I'm here it is continually changing. This August a lot of close friends of mine will end their contracts and head home. The same will happen again in February while I am making some tough decisions of my own. For now I plan on enjoying every moment of this ridiculous journey. Korea has it's flaws and sometimes it is down right odd, but I've always had an affinity for the quirky so I'm fitting in just fine!

I recently came a across a list of "You know you've been in Korea too long when...." In honor of month 5 I'll share a few of my favorites. Also, for a glimpse of life in Seoul (a hilarious one at that) check out this video: "Kicking it in Geumchon" It is so accurate it scares me a little.

So finally the list (with a few additions of my own)...

You know you've been in Korea too long when...

...you don't mind paying more for coffee than for dinner.

... a roll of toilet paper at the dinner table doesn't bother you.

... you like to cut your food with scissors.

... you don't event nottice the misspelled signs in Englishee

... you know the name of at least five Korean celebrities and have downloaded at least 10 Kpop songs

... you hate Japan for no apparent reason.

... you bow to all your white friends

...you enjoy bad tasting instant coffee in luxury settings (or anywhere really).

... you wouldn't dream of wearing shoes in your house (gross!) and you find it perfectly acceptable to wear slippers at work.

... you've bought everything they sell on the subway.

... you can pronounce "hyundai" correctly

... you start using Konglish in general conversation

... you think any apartment bigger than 10 square feet is HUGE!

... you stop being surprised after laboring up a mountain for two hours and running into a young woman all dressed up in heals and a young man in a suit and tie.

... you're used to getting shoved out of the way by frail looking old ladies.

... you don't bother lining up for anything.

Thanks to whoever wrote these!!!

Englishee Speechee Contestuh

2009-06-25T10:39:00.011-04:00

Last week we had a Speech Contest for our 3rd and 4th graders. About twenty students were forced by their parents -I mean volunteered - to write elaborate speeches in English and then spend every waking moment memorizing them. They then had the privelage of reciting their speeches for a room full of teachers all in the hopes of being named number one.

The results were nothing less than adorable, and after a week of correcting and typing speeches I got to sit back and enjoy the show. I was really impressed with how well the students did. Here are some pictures and a very short video that I managed to take in between my judging duties. Enjoy!

An Interesting New York Times Article...

2009-06-23T22:39:00.002-04:00

If you have a chance, check out this article on North/South Korea. It's an interesting take on the situation.

I think its about time...

2009-06-22T03:19:00.004-04:00

...to give you a little more K Pop

so enjoy The Wonder Girls "So Hot" because you may be hearing them over in the States soon. They are releasing an English album and going on tour with the Jonas Brothers. Go K Pop!

2009-06-15T10:25:00.002-04:00

It's been a long eventful week in which I've barely stepped foot in my apartment. Last Tuesday through Friday I had a GEPIK (Gyeonggi English Program in Korea) Teacher's Workshop so I traded in my regular work days for a sleep over camp/prison for foreign teachers. I was able to sleep in a bit on Tuesday before heading to Guemjong Station where they promptly carted us off to the middle of nowhere. The Workshops used to be held in the city, but the teachers spent a little too much time at the bars so this time we were headed for Guam. We were told we couldn't leave "the compound" past 7 pm, but that the convenience store on the premises would sell beer. There was also a driving range, walking path, and some nighttime entertainment. Goody.

The opening ceremony was interesting, to put it mildly. We were told we were going to see a performance and then in walks three very scantily clad Korean girls with instruments which they preceded to "fake play" to recorded music while they danced provocatively. It was all a little much for a Tuesday morning, but hey, it's Korea. The rest of the time we attended lectures on teaching techniques and co teacher relationships and did some practice teaching. Some of the lectures were really interesting and I left with a lot of new ideas to use in the classroom. At night they played Korean movies and we just hung out and had a few beers. We watched a great movie called the Host which I highly recommend if you can get your hands on it. It was a monster movie, but minus all the Hollywood cheese. This one was funny, thrilling, sad, and satirical all at once.

On Friday we finished at 11 am and the sun was shining. I couldn't wait to get home and was extremely grateful for the half day. I had to unpack then repack immediately because I was off to Jeju Island for the weekend. Jeju is known as "Honeymoon Island" or "The Hawaii of South Korea", but I laughed off both descriptions feeling absolutely sure there was nothing even closely resembling Hawaii in Korea. It's located just off the southern coast of the country and I thought it was too far north to look the way it had been described to me. I was wrong, however.

Maddy and I had signed up for a biking trip through meetup.com and we were leaving early Saturday morning. Luckily, Maddy lives right near the airport, so I spent the night at her place, avoiding waking up before dawn.

The trip was absolutely amazing. The weather must have decided it owed me one, because despite forecasts of rain we only saw sunshine and blue skies. On day one we biked around Udo Island, a smaller island off Jeju's East Coast, then hiked up a volcanic crater for a nice view of the island. We went to ride horses after that, which was more of a kids' pony ride than anything. The horses trotted around for a while then ran around in circles on a track while I tried to hang on to both the saddle and the ridiculous cowboy hat they made me wear.

In the evening we headed to our lovely hotel by the beach for a BBQ (complete with tofu for us veggies) and a campfire under the stars. The next day the weather was even more perfect and after spending the morning at the beach, Maddy and I decided that we just couldn't bear to leave for the scheduled itinerary that consisted largely of being indoors. We opted to catch a cab and meet the others at the airport, so we spent the rest of the day lounging on the sand and eating delicious fresh seafood at a Japanese restaurant overlooking the ocean.

So Maddy and I had a delightful Honeymoon amidst the palm trees and blue green water. We came home refreshed and significantly sunburned and after two weekends away, I'm ready to take on the city again.

Enjoy the pictures below!!

Honeymoon Island

2009-06-15T09:26:00.014-04:00

My trip to Jeju Island, located off the southern coast of South Korea, in pictures.

I have to remind myself that this is Korea.

Beach bums

Crystal clear water

We ate some amazing fresh seafood

There were baby horses everywhere, it was heaven.

We hiked a volcanic crater... the view from the top

Made it!

Nothing but blue skies.

The hike down

Woman power!

The view from our balcony

Sunset at the shore

Campfire tales

More pics

2009-06-09T10:48:00.008-04:00

friends

enemy # 1

more fireworks

coastline

baggage

fireworks

Chilling at the tent

drinking games

Sunshine Funshine??

2009-06-09T09:56:00.017-04:00

Went camping at the beach last weekend. Took a six hour train ride to Mangsang Beach on the East Coast and the weather was crap. We still had a great time though, played some football, raced quads, shot off fireworks and drank too much Whiskey. Who needs the sun when you've got good company??

Check out some pics courtesy of the organizer/bday girl Eunyoung!

Our super sexy (and classy) first night's accomodations. Hey, who's picky at 4 am??

The ocean! Finally!!!!

JMP and out wonderful borrowed tent (that I lugged everywhere)

Wearing my fav "Englishee tshirt"

Lacy managed to blow up the beach ball although it was a bit too windy

teaching the Brits about football

loving Eunyoung, the birthday girl. Boop!

card games

All beach and no sun makes drinking a priority...

ummm... fireworks and sparklers??? yes!!!

survived the weekend... at the train station

Staking out the diner car on the ride home

I. MIGHT. DIE.

2009-06-04T21:16:00.002-04:00

Oh my noraebang!!

For those of you not in Korea - noraebangs are a phenomenon that might be referred to as Korean Karaoke Rooms. They are absolutely everywhere and if you see some Koreans drinking soju you can bet they will be hitting up the noraebang shortly. In Korea, karaoke is done in private rooms. That way, you can make a fool of yourself and only your coworkers will see, not those pesky strangers.

I nearly died today at work when my friend Steve posted this video online of the comedic genius that is Flight of the Conchords doing up a noraebang.

Please enjoy. You can thank me by mailing me some Mexican food (really, please, I'm dying over here.)

YOU ABSOLUTELY MUST WATCH THIS VIDEO

I could use a drug store human about now

2009-06-02T21:21:00.005-04:00

I love the charge that hangs in the air after a thunderstorm; the way the sky tints a sickening yellow adding an edge to a dismal gray day. I can't relax. I feel excited for no reason at all. For two weeks now I have barely slept. This is my first flirtation with insomnia and its somewhat fascinating. Normally, I am a healthy sleeper. I need 7-8 hours to feel my best, no more or less. Lately, I average about five. I stay up entire nights to do things like go to Incheon on a Wednesday and watch a soccer game that I don't know anything about. It seemed like a good idea at the time...

Presently, the storms have receded to nothing more than rumbling threats on the edge of my mind. They threaten my Saturdays but stay safely out of view. The sun once again fills the sky, spiking temperatures and causing restlessness all around. The heat has made my students much more difficult to handle, but also much more hilarious. My third graders have gotten in the habit of coming into the classroom calling, "Hello moto" like little parrots. The students have also been coming up with some interesting answers to my questions.

me: What do you call somebody who works in a pharmacy?

6th grade boy: Ummm... drug store human!!

me: What do you want to be when you grow up?

student: Crazy!

I also have a friend who asked his students what the currency in Mexico was and they answered "Nachos!"

They have also decided that every white woman in any powerpoint I show looks just like me. It doesn't matter how old she is, or which class I am showing the picture to, its always, "Oh, look, Brittany Teacher!" And they do this with complete sincerity. Come on, I can't really look like the forty year old woman with the chin length haircut... can I?? I decided to ask my coteacher about it and she confirmed my suspicion: we white people all look the same.

I know, I know, its a common stereotype that you are tired of hearing about. Or wait a minute...

Apparently my coteacher's mother doesn't even like to watch American films because she can't tell the characters apart. So really, I can't blame my students, because that thirty five year old female scientist with brown hair could easily be my twin sister.

Also amusing was the day I wore a dress to school for the first time. Its taken three months, but I wasn't in the mood until the weather got hot. I had several conversations that day that went something like this:

Korean Teacher (with look of complete amazement): You look nice today.
me: Thank you.
KT: you are wearing a dress.
me: yes... I am.
KT: Oh, is it a special day?
me: No, not really. It's just hot.
KT: Oh, because you always wear pants.
me: Yeah, I usually do wear pants.
KT: But today you are wearing a dress so I thought maybe it was a special day.
me: nope, just a regular day
KT: Its just that every day you have on a shirt and pants....

Either Koreans really don't like change or I need to start dressing nicer at school.

On a totally different note I have some fun weekends coming up. I am going camping at the beach on the east coast this weekend, then next weekend will be biking and more beach on Jeju Island. Jeju is off the southern tip of Korea and is known as the country's Hawaii, however I am fairly certain there is nothing even slightly resembling Hawaii in Korea. It is supposed to be really nice though and Maddy and I are taking the trip with a meetup.com group so we will meet a lot of new people.

Then in July we have Mud Festival. Basically it's exactly what it sounds like: a big group of people (mainly foreigners) gather at the beach, drink, and throw mud at each other all weekend. What could possibly be better?? I mean that. Mud is the best. Oh, and I also have my bungee jumping adventure coming up the last weekend in June (see my poll ----->).

I have had a blogging lull lately now that I have settled into a routine. Everything that used to seem strange has become normal and all the things that used to be normal feel strange. I've been rambling on about nothing a lot but hopefully I will have more to say now that life is getting eventful again. Thanks for bearing with me (and if you bailed long ago you don't even know I'm writing this or that I am giving you the finger right.... now.)

In other news...

2009-05-27T01:45:00.003-04:00

A group of foreigner teachers are currently under quarantine in Seoul for Swine Flu. Schools all over Seoul are trying to limit foreigner to foreigner contact. Luckily mine hasn't succumbed to the hysteria yet. Check out the hilarious blog straight from the quarantine room... Hang in there guys! No worries, kimchi can cure anything!! (Watch this to see how...)

North Korea has decided that once you pop you just can't stop and is sending missiles out like fireworks. I also read an interesting article about how U.S. experts are trying to determine how long Kim Jong Il will live based on two month old photos released by the North Korean government. Right, because all the information released by that government is so reliable... Why is it that dictators never seem to die of natural causes until they've reached the ripe old age of 437?

On a more somber note, the former South Korean president committed suicide over the weekend amid accusations of bribery. From what I am told, he was popular with the people and the charges are somewhat overblown and part of a tradition of incoming administrations to heavily investigate former leaders in an attempt to gain support.

It has been an eventful week in Korea to be sure. I'm feeling pretty good right now as neither missiles or H1N1 have managed to do me in (for now...).

2009-05-25T09:21:00.002-04:00

I'm thinking about home. Home as a concept, home as a place, home as a troubling indefinable illusion. The word reveals a bouquet of dull sensations, sweet and heavy like ripe fruit. On this rainy night they are apparitions all around me. They cling to the walls and watch me mutely, waiting for a trigger that can set them wailing like banshees. No such luck.

I turn the word over in my palm and study it with numb detachment. Its edges are worn soft by use and it feels nice to hold, but I can't figure out where to put it. Does it belong behind me, somewhere I can turn to, a place which exists when I remember it and recedes into the distance as I move forward? Or maybe it belongs in front. Maybe it exists ahead of me, waiting to be revealed at some arbitrary moment in the future. I place it in my lap and turn it over a few times, feeling it out. It feels okay, but the word is humming. No, this is good now, but this is not it. It is restless in my hands.

The word is restless and I am restless. I vibrate with a thousand possibilities and toss the word onto the floor, absentmindedly moving on to new vocabulary. They tell me I have a short attention span, and they're right, but some of us were just born to move.

I teach therefore I am... mental

2009-05-15T04:14:00.008-04:00

They like to choose English names...

My teacher's day gifts! (I got some yummy sushi too)

Break time = drawing on the board time for Brian and Kay

Shelly and Brian clowning around in English Club

Today is Teacher's Day in Korea and when I arrived at school it dawned on me: somewhere in these past five months I became a teacher. Now this should seem obvious, after all, I came here to teach. When you leave for Korea, however, you think about the flight, you worry about how you will fit in, if you'll like the food and the people, if you'll be lonely, and how difficult the language is. The one thing you don't think about is the very thing you are coming to do. At least that's how it went for me.

I've always loved kids and worked with kids, but this is something new entirely. I find myself talking about class control when I'm out for a beer. I smile on my walk to work. I hear "Teacher! Teacher!" in my sleep. I enjoy writing "teacher" instead of "student" under occupation when I am filling out immigration forms. I hope I'm good enough, funny enough, strong enough, and patient enough. After believing I'd never be content in any occupation, I find myself happy, I find myself caring.

I have no control over any of my classes. I am the world's biggest pushover and it's got to stop. I spend my days yelling over thirty screaming voices. I beg, plead, bribe, and threaten to no avail. "Game Teacher! Game!" It's the only thing that shuts them up.

I choose favorites. Sometimes it's just because they are so cute I want to pinch their cheeks. Others crack me up with their dead on impressions of the characters on our CD-ROM. I have a student who named himself "baby dog" and another who wrote "Brittany" on the back of his name tag, which he shows when only I (and not my co teacher) can see. The third grader who runs to me and hugs me every time she sees me is a clear favorite, as are all my English Club students. I love the fifth grade boys who act so tough, but then crumple up and cry at the slightest incident and remind you that they're still little boys. And I'm endlessly amused by the sixth grade girls who have made it their life missions to teach me Korean pop culture and the Korean language in rapid, excited, impossible to follow lessons.

Sometimes I want to kill my students. I imagine that they are giving me premature wrinkles and I get very bitter. They always want candy from me... and stickers. I am a candy and sticker machine with a good accent. Luckily, they are funny kids. Laughing makes the exasperation fade. Talking about animals, I asked my kids, "Do you like pigs?" "No, " a student replied and when I asked why he said, "Influenza." The kid can barely answer the question "How are you?" but somehow managed that. And today when I asked "How's the weather?" a student raised his hand and said, "The sun is very angry today!"

Best of all. Being the only foreign teacher in the school gives me rock star status. All the kids want to use their English so they are always yelling and waving to me outside of class. It makes me look cool in front of the other teachers.

So, Teacher's Day has been a good day. The moms brought me a pot of flowers and some sushi in the afternoon. My kids made me Teacher's Day cards. I'll end this post with some of the messages. You can tell by their perfect English how great a teacher I am...

Hello! Brittany! My name is so hyun. I like English study. It's very fun. Brittany, your like English and English study. I'm very English study. I love you. Goodbye.

Brittany, Hello Teacher! I'm Seo Young. Do you know what day is it today? Today is teacher's day so I prepared some present. It's a flower It made of paper. Teacher! I love you forever

hello, Brittany. My name is shin-hyun-ji. Today is teacher's day. Today is happy day. Congratulation! Brittany Have a nice weekend!!

Hello Brittany. Do you know today is teacher's day? Teacher is very kind. Good afternoon dye!

To. hee soung sheen

Hello!! Brittany? My name is Ji won Jung. Brittany, I like English. English is very fun. I love Brittany!! See you later!

Ho brittany teacher... Hello teacher, I'm choi seo young. Always, I feel very thank you. Happy teacher day to you and never hate you. I <3>

A gift for your ears

2009-05-11T01:21:00.003-04:00

So I'm pretty much obsessed with Korean pop music at this point. I hear my students sing it all day long at school, its blasting in my gym, on the street, in stores... It's awesome. So, I was psyched when I was catching up on my gossip via Perez Hilton on Sunday afternoon and saw that Giant Korean Boy Band extraordinaire, Super Junior, had gotten a mention from Perez.

It made me realize that I should be sharing the wonder that is Korean pop with all of you. So... click here and enjoy "Sorry Sorry" You can thank me later.

p.s. They must set a world record for most members in one band. I mean, its crazy.

And don't worry... there is more Korean pop to come

Taipei Taipei!

2009-05-10T02:13:00.013-04:00

A nice little upgrade...

An interesting weather description at the Taipei Airport

the park by our hostel

Chinese

Confucian Temple

Chiang Kai Shek Memorial

Taipei 101

Shillin Night Market

The choice of Taipei as our destination for Children's Day Weekend had a lot more to do with plane ticket prices than anything else, but I'm really glad I got the chance to go. For one thing, I have been considering teaching there in the future because the jobs are well paid and the climate is nice. For another, it was a whole lot of fun.

The glow of euphoria was still upon me when I woke up at Maddy's on Saturday morning and we headed for the airport. The universe was most definitely happy with us because we were informed at the ticket counter that there were no more seats in coach and we would therefore have to endure an upgrade to business class. Fiiiiiiine. On the way through security my skin, warmed by a slight sunburn, set off the heat sensors they had set up to find sick passengers and I was stopped for a quick temperature check. I was informed that I didn't have swine flu, so all in all it was a positive start to the day.

After stopping for some extremely necessary mocha lattes, we realized we were a bit late to our gate. With a little hustling, we made it in time and settled into our cozy business class seats with our lattes and the Wall Street Journal. We wanted to look the part. A few glasses of complimentary champagne later and we had arrived.

A large sign in the Taipei airport informed us that the weather outside was "sultry," and I thought that sounded like a great time. We hopped a bus into the city and my spirits brightened even more (if that's possible) when I saw the blue skies and palm trees. I could definitely do this. We dropped our stuff at our hostel and immediately set out for some exploring, lunch at a veggie restaurant, and some serious lounging in Peace Park. It was Saturday, so we felt it was our obligation to check out the Taipei nightlife as well. We went to a really cool club called Luxy where a DJ played some awesome music while we danced all night long.

The next day, we rallied for some sight seeing even though our skulls were rebelling. We visited a beautiful and unique Confucian Temple first. Then we headed to the Chiang Kai Shek Memorial which was a gorgeous, absolutely huge white building with an intricate blue roof. It was in the middle of a large public square where some sort of health fair was taking place. The Taiwanese are seriously into giving out free samples, and I am seriously into getting them, except for one weird drink that Lacy described as "a little bit like dirt in my mouth." Later that night, we headed to Taipei 101, the World's Tallest Building. It was really cool to see, because it towers of everything else in the city and I really love the design. The building itself looks like a large bamboo shoot and its exteriors are walls of glass. Conveniently Taipei 101 also has the World's fastest elevator. It only took 36 seconds to get to the observation deck on the 88th floor. Later we headed to the famous Shillin Night Market to try out some Taiwanese street food. We had oyster pancakes and Thai papaya salad (oh how I missed you!!!) But we were way to scared to try to the stinky tofu, a fermented dish that smells like dead bodies. I just couldn't get past that minor detail.

Tragically, our beach day turned out to be the only rainy day of our trip. Instead of the glorious day in the sand I had been dreaming about we decided to visit the hot springs in a local town about one and a half hours away by train. We went to a nice little hotel whose owner, Oliver, was very eager to befriend us and make sure we were comfortable. "I love Americans. I want American friends, they are so nice." he told me enthusiastically, "But Koreans and Japanese I don't like." he added ominously. He gave us a gorgeous room with a private mineral bath to relax in, which also allowed us access to the larger rooftop hot spring. Maddy and I decided to splurge on massages first and soon two Taiwanese women arrived at our room. The next hour can only be described as the most painful thing that has ever happened to me. These women took the term deep tissue to the next level. Not wanting to seem like a baby, I gritted my teeth and tried to go to my happy place, hoping I wouldn't end up covered in bruises the next day. It turns out both Maddy and I contemplated whether our massages were anything like real torture at several points during our ordeal.

My date with pain behind me we headed upstairs for some relaxation. The rooftop hot springs were immediately dubbed "The Grotto" for their resemblance to Hugh Hefner's backyard. There was even disco lights. Someone had the bright idea that Oliver should take our picture for his hotel brochure and within minutes he had set up a tripod and the picture became a full on photo shoot. I hope we end up on a billboard somewhere.

Maddy and I left the other girls and headed back to Taipei because our flight was leaving the next afternoon. We have gotten used to restaurants never closing in Korea so we were dismayed to find the Buddhist Vegetarian Buffet we had trekked all over the city looking for was closed when we got there. Instead we ate Pizza at the world's classiest Pizza Hut ever. A poor substitute and we felt kind of defeated, but I won't lie, it was damn good.

We flew back to reality in Korea where I was happily not quarantined for swine flu and for the first time I was "coming home to Korea." It felt really nice. When I opened my apartment door I just flopped onto my bed happily. I had missed my little apartment and I immediately felt comfortably at home. It seems I'm settling in.

I smile and the universe smiles back.

2009-05-05T07:29:00.002-04:00

On Friday afternoon, life is great. It was my school's gym festival so there were no classes for the day. I seized the opportunity to have a Thursday night get together for all the new teachers who have arrived in Gunpo. Long story short, I ended up drinking a few too many beers and getting three hours of sleep. Not to worry, it's nothing a hot shower and an Americano can't cure. I was even early to work.

When I first arrived I was sad because I wasn't wearing a track suit and sun visor like the other teachers. I quickly got over it when I realized that my only duty for the day was to sit in the sun while my students fed my chocolate, gave me massages and told me I was pretty (love my job!) I even got a little tan until my co-teacher pulled me out of the sun and sent me to sit with the old Korean ladies under a tent.

The gym festival is quite the event. The teachers have been planning it for months and the kids have been practicing for a few weeks. Each grade performs a dance and competes in relay races and other events. The school is divided into two teams, white and blue, who compete for the highest total score. Friday was labor day in Korea so all the parents and grandparents showed up to cheer and take pictures. I especially loved the parents who ran next to their kids during the relays, just in case their kid managed to forget what to do. The parents even ran races and played tug of war. One of the dads wiped out during a race - it's no joke!

You can't beat the dances though. There is nothing like watching 5th grade boys shake pom poms to the beat of "Oh Mickey You're so Fine" to soothe the soul.

After the games we had a big lunch with all sorts of special treats (even beer!) My principal wanted me to drink a can of beer, but as soon as I heard the word I had a flash back to the night before that involved me yelling "I'm so good at chugging beer!" and then proceeding to try and prove it. I decided to abstain.

The best part was when at 2 pm my co-teacher told me I could go home. As I walked home in the sunshine, the air around me the absolute perfect temperature, I was feeling what I can only describe as euphoria. And it was only going to get better. Next stop, Taipei....

Buddha-full

2009-04-27T09:54:00.012-04:00

Photos from the Lotus Lantern Festival to celebrate Buddha's Birthday:

Lantern Parade

Pretty temple door

Make a wish Buddha

Paper lanterns at the temple

Yeah, I made this. No, really, I did.

Window to my Seoul...

2009-04-21T09:33:00.012-04:00

Love my city <3

Proof that I did indeed make it hiking. Even though we got lost in the "wilderness" and Maddy got the stigmata, it was a great day.

So beautiful! And a preview to this weekend's paper lantern festival!

Found a great new night spot. So much going on!

Foreign Teacher field trip! Day off work to explore a Korean Folk Village - kind of like the Korean version of Plymouth Plantation. Too bad it rained all day.

Architecture close up at the Korean Folk Village

Traditional Korean sweet. Tastes okay but it's made with magic... I saw it.

Cherry Blossom time!

In Korea, you have to pose like this with cherry blossoms. Preferably you should take the picture with your cell phone.

hamming it up... when in Seoul...

I learn something new every day

2009-04-20T03:03:00.007-04:00

Word for word from my 5th grade Teacher's Guide Text book (spelling and grammar mistakes included)

Cultural Tips

The culture of exclamation

Western people show exclamation even over trifles. This phenomenon isn't found an oriental culture that appreciates people who control their feeling and taciturn. We can usually see Americans who are moved so easily by things that Koreans aren't effected by. This means they are accustomed to expressing feeling freely and frankly.

In western culture, they start a conversation about the weather when they meet someone for the first time: 'It's a lovely day, isn't it?'. This is referenced to the inclement weather in England. (!!!!! priceless)

The people who live in an area with nice weather like Korea aren't touched by this kind of thing but Englishman can be impressed.

Ummm nice weather like Korea? I'm pretty sure this isn't the tropics and today it's dark, cloudy, and rainy out. Guess I need to be more in control of my feelings and taciturn. Maybe tomorrow will be sunny so I can be impressed.

On the move!

2009-04-19T09:07:00.005-04:00

Just booked tickets to Taipei for the Children's Day long weekend in May. In under two weeks I'll be crossing borders again - off to temples, markets, skyscrapers, and of course, the beach!

Maybe the best post I will every write...

2009-04-15T09:18:00.002-04:00

Today was a day filled with learning, but while the rest of it can wait, I cannot go a minute longer without sharing - THE SOUTH KOREAN URBAN FAN LEGEND!

Apparently, there is a pervasive and serious belief that falling asleep with a fan on in a closed room can lead to asphyxiation and death. So widespread is this belief, that all Korean fans come equipped with a timer which shuts the fan off at night before it kills the unsuspecting sleeper.

This is no joke. Tell any Korean that you are going to fall asleep with your fan on and your door shut and they will tell you that you are going to die. The theories range from "the fan blades chop up all the oxygen particles in the air" "the fan creates a vortex which sucks all the oxygen out of the room" all the way to "the fan causes death by hypothermia" Despite the fact that none of these explanations are scientifically plausible or even logical, they are persistent and even backed by many South Korean medical professionals. The government regularly attributes deaths to "asphyxiation from electric fans and air conditioners."

Even the media has jumped on the band wagon. Check out this article I found on Wikipedia:

The heat wave which has encompassed Korea for about a week, has generated various heat-related accidents and deaths. At least 10 people died from the effects of electric fans which can remove oxygen from the air and lower body temperatures...
On Friday in eastern Seoul, a 16-year-old girl died from suffocation after she fell asleep in her room with an electric fan in motion. The death toll from fan-related incidents reached 10 during the past week. Medical experts say that this type of death occurs when one is exposed to electric fan breezes for long hours in a sealed area. "Excessive exposure to such a condition lowers one's temperature and hampers blood circulation. And it eventually leads to the paralysis of heart and lungs," says a medical expert.
"To prevent such an accident, one should keep the windows open and not expose oneself directly to fan air," he advised

The government even goes as far as to recommend, "To prevent asphyxiation, timers should be set, wind direction should be rotated and doors should be left open."

It seems that the whole country has been struck by fan hysteria. I just can't get over the ridiculousness, it makes me irrationally happy. I'm going to buy a really big fan, close all my doors and windows, and try it out. I might even video tape it and make it the subject of next week's English lessons. Then again, I don't think I want to be responsible for stopping this urban legend. It's even better than crocodiles in the sewers.

I'd tell you to wake up, but you haven't slept in days

2009-04-12T07:30:00.004-04:00

No doubt about it, life has been a lot of fun. Spending the past week on my death bed, however, has made me realize that maybe I need to get my act together a little bit. Now that the beautiful weather has rolled in, there are a lot of things I want to do and see.

Seoul isn't exactly one of the world's greatest tourist draws, but I would like to check out some of the palaces and temples in the city. I want to do some hiking before the weather gets too hot and to finally make it to one of the Seoul Veggie Club meetings. I'd also like to find the English bookstore in the city and buy some books to help me study Korean.

Seoul nightlife is a lot of fun, but the late nights and the hour long subway ride in and out of the city make it really hard to accomplish much during the day. This weekend was Maddy's 23rd birthday, so we decided to go hard and celebrate then become functional human beings next weekend.

Well, its Sunday, and things are looking up. I'm feeling better and I went on an apartment cleaning rampage all day in an attempt to disinfect the "sick nest." I'm not what you would consider domestic by any stretch of the imagination, but I am starting to see what's up with this whole cleaning thing... it does feel kind of nice. Just don't get any ideas about me becoming an obsessive compulsive tidier like my extremely deranged (wonderful and beautiful but yes, psychotic) sister -btw Lee, you would have loved to see me scrubbing away at my counter tops in sweatpants and rubber gloves.

Now I'm in the process of organizing my finances in the hopes of sending home that student loan money AND taking a little trip for a long weekend in May (the Philippines? Japan?) Sure, maybe I don't need to take a trip, but it is my solemn duty to make sure that I see as many sights as possible while I am here... and to write about it all and keep everyone interested at home. See? It's for you much more than it is for me.

So, I welcome myself back to the productive lifestyle. It's been a little while, but I think I can get the hang of it again. It was always easier to sleep when the sun is down...

Spring Fever

2009-04-10T01:15:00.002-04:00

Before I left the States, everyone asked me, "Aren't you worried about being so close to North Korea?" I really wasn't. The way I see it, in the event of a nuclear attack, the safest place to be is as close to the attacker as possible.

Well, it's only been a month and North Korea has already managed to shoot a missile. It's funny because the whole issue was a lot calmer here than it was on the New York Times website. Life just carried on through the waiting period and through the launching. No surprise, the missile was a dud, provoking a lot of "strong statements" from foreign leaders, but very little action. I must be living in the most placid war zone ever.

So nuclear war has not managed to kill me off, but the Korean common cold just might do the trick. It has been a solid week of a sore throat, stuffy nose, pounding head, and spiking fevers. The fevers rage out of control, and though I haven't been able to take my temperature, the sticky sweat that coats my skin during my morning classes is a pretty good indication that it's high. Did I mention that I'm dizzy and nauseous and unable to eat? I'm no baby when it comes to sickness, but really, kill me now.

The universe showed me some kind of mercy by allowing me a day off on Wednesday for local elections. The weather has been gorgeous, so even though I can't smell the spring air and the sunlight hurts my head (and well, everything hurts my everything...) I dragged myself outside and laid in the park with an equally sick Lacy. I dragged myself through disorienting fevers on Thursday and then came to school without the one thing necessary for teaching on Friday... my voice.

Damn Korean germs.

North Korea: the Drama Queen of Asia

2009-04-06T02:00:00.001-04:00

From the Korea Times:

NK Accuses Seoul of Poisoning Players Before Football Match

North Korea has made a belated accusation that South Korean hosts had incapacitated its football players just before a World Cup regional qualifier held here last week, urging the international football association FIFA to look into the matter."The main players of the football team of the DPRK could not get up due to serious vomiting, diarrhea and headaches since the night of March 31, just a day before the match," an unidentified spokesman for the North's football association was quoted as saying by Yonhap News Agency in a statement carried by the North's Korean Central News Agency.DPRK stands for the North's official name, the Democratic People's Republic of Korea."It can be said that it was beyond all doubt that the incident was a product of a deliberate act perpetrated by adulterated foodstuff as they could not get up all of a sudden just before the match," the statement said.Seoul beat the North Korean team 1-0 in the Wednesday match.The North claimed its defeat was also partly due to what the spokesman called "biased" calls by referees and accused South Korean President Lee Myung-bak of being behind the plot."It is as clear as noonday that it was a product of the Lee Myung-bak group's moves for confrontation with the DPRK and a deliberate behavior bred by the unsavory forces instigated by it," it said.

Something's Fishy Over Here...

2009-04-04T00:05:00.004-04:00

So I finally gave in and went to Dr. Fish....

... I can't believe it took me this long. We laughed it off as weird in Thailand, but we were oh so wrong!

For those of you who don't know, Dr. Fish is a pool full of little fishes that eat the dead skin on your feet while you sit and relax. Once you get over the initial revulsion of dead skin eating fish, it's really fun! Even I, with the world's most ticklish feet, enjoyed myself. It does tickle a lot though, especially when the small ones nibble at your arches and toes. The larger fish feel more like sandpaper, and they really go to work!

This particular Dr. Fish spot is located inside a bar that is otherwise completely like any other bar in the area. They have a large pool in one corner and you can use it for free if you order food or a drink. We ordered a few rounds of Cass, got to chatting, and emerged an hour later with softer skin and a little buzz. The fish seemed pretty psyched about about the experience as well.

p.s. Mom, you and your foot fetish would love this.

A Musing

2009-04-01T08:46:00.006-04:00

Squat toilets: the Asian toilet of choice. Being on the fourth floor of my school means using the kiddy toilets or walking up and down three flights of stairs every time I have to pee. They are tiny - either my aim is going to be legendary or one day I am going to pee all over my pants.

I'm convinced that the Beatles were ESL teachers in another life.

Statement I really hate: "You don't have to help him, he's slow."

I get paid overtime for work done during my normal school hours.
Yes. The answer is yes, they definitely eat dog in Korea.

I'm really glad my co-teacher isn't into hitting students with sticks... although sometimes I would like to.

Turns out drinking bottles of whiskey and eating dried fish with Korean business men is a really fun way to pass the time.

While passing the time in the manner listed above I found an in with Korean Air... in the cargo department. So what if I can't get free tickets? I have been assured that if I ever need to ship my body home I can get a discount. Sweet.

In Korea I am actually 24 years old. Here you are born one year old and everyone turns another year old at the new year. Therefore, on the new year in 1987 I turned two. I don't like this.

It's been a month and I still only know about three Korean words. It's a bit pathetic but I swear I'd do better if Korean words weren't each one hundred syllables long! Case in point: hello - annyeonghaseyo thank you - kamsahamnida Ooo and here's a new favorite! excuse me - shillehagessumnida (I have NOT learned this one yet)

I really love how you say hello on the phone in Korea - it sounds like YO-BO-SAY-O but you have to say it with the right tone. I wish people called me more just so I could say it...

I really enjoy writing random lists, although figuring out how to end them is hard.

Karmic

2009-04-01T02:45:00.002-04:00

When I see I am nothing, that is wisdom. When I see I am everything, That is love. And between these two, my life flows.
Nisargadatta Maharaj
I came across this quote today.

Nothingness

2009-03-31T09:16:00.002-04:00

Awareness unfolds like petals and I climb slowly out of my sleep, emerging reluctantly from my subconscious. I crawl through that first instant of awareness, the moment when neither time or space or self exist, until I find myself tangled in bed sheets, face down on my pillow. Peering out of the haze filling my mind, I recognize the edges of sensation - softness, dimness, silence. I am anywhere in the world, or I am nowhere, for nowhere exists to me yet. In this moment before I recognize my existence, I am without place or time and I am no one. Standing on the peripheral of consciousness, it always feels the same.

The daylight melts away outside my window, casting shadows in orange and blue on my walls. I emerge on the other side and as far as I know I have awoken the same person who fell asleep an hour ago in her quiet apartment in Korea. I have woven this life, this person, from dreams however, just as surely as if I'd been the creation of an hour's sleep. I think about this moment for a long time, where everything and nothing are exactly the same, and I imagine there is some great truth lying in its shadow. I am drawn to that instant because deep down I seek nothing. There are things I want, surely, but I have no idea what they are. When waking I find contentment in the idea that seeking nothing will bring me everything, because in the end, it's all the same. And, if I don't know what I want for the future, my everything is after all, nothing to me yet.

One Month Mark

2009-03-27T04:31:00.004-04:00

Another week has gone by, which means I have now been in Seoul for one month. One month in! It can't be right. Last Friday there was a meeting for all the public school teachers in my city. I was able to meet the teachers who I haven't run into yet and we discussed this year's summer camp. I am desperately trying to organize my summer break at the end of august, and school gets out in mid July, so my camp schedule is of the utmost importance. In Gunpo, all the teachers participate in an overnight camp for one week from Monday to Friday. We drew our assigned weeks from a hat, and lucky me! I drew the first week! I also found out that I'll be teaching cooking, which is going to be a blast. The other teachers tell me that the camp is really fun, plus, we get paid extra for it. I also found out there is a large possibility that I will have more than two weeks off this summer, depending on the day camp schedule. Bali here I come!!!

I spent the weekend in Seoul as usual, only this time Maddy and I met up with a friend of hers who works at the U.S. Embassy. We got to see his house on the military base (the U.S. has a massive active base in the center of Seoul) and it was just like being back in the states. Maddy and I now refer to last weekend as "our weekend in America." We got to bake brownies in an actual oven, and hang out in an American style restaurant eating real chips and salsa and paying in dollars!! Even better, we got to drive in a car. It was definitely a trip, but it made me realize I'm just not homesick yet.

On Wednesday I only had to work a half day. Once a month we get to leave early on Wednesday to do an activity with the other teachers like hiking or watching a movie. Everyone was exhausted because its the first month of the school year, so we got to just go home this time. I spent the afternoon reading in bed with a cup of coffee. Heaven!!

Then yesterday we had a dinner for all the new teachers at my school. We went to a Korean restaurant after our classes and sat at two big long tables (Korean style, on the floor of course). They served us plates of kimchi, rice cakes, and cabbage salad and then set huge bowls of broth onto burners that were built into the tables. The bowls were filled with every kind of mushroom known to man, and they slowly cooked before us. After eating the mushrooms, they brought out beef (I obviously declined in favor of more mushrooms). Then, just when I thought we couldn't eat any more they brought out bowls of rice and vegetables, which they poured into the broth and we cooked until it formed a porridge. Think of it as Asian risotto. To finish we drank bowls of a cold sweet liquid that tasted very strongly of cinnamon.

It's always strange being the only foreigner among a huge group of Koreans, mostly because of the language barrier. Many of them tried to speak English to me, but still, I spent most of the time lost amidst a hum of sound I could not recognize. It didn't feel awkward at all this time, however. I felt like being the only non-Korean there made me privy to a secret world. I watched the way they ate their food and listened to the way they pronounced their words. It's amazing how much you can learn in this way.

There were definitely some memorable interactions, however. First, the school receptionist (the saucy secretary mentioned earlier) announced to everyone that she was afraid of me because she couldn't speak English. Later, when they handed out roses to the new teachers, she gave me mine, saying, "This is for you" in English. I was sure to respond "komapsumnida" (thank you). Later, the head teacher, one of two male teachers present, came over to me and said very loudly, "I want you." For several seconds I was mortified thinking that he had hit the soju too hard. It turned out he was trying to say "I want you to teach me English." and everyone had a good laugh because "I want you" has the same meaning in Korean as it does in English.

I also had the chance to speak with another teacher, who is young and is in the small group I have tea and lunch with once in a while at school. It turns out he took a course on teaching Korean to foreigners. He really wants help with his English, so maybe we can work out a language exchange. He is immediately on my good side because he said to me, "You are very skilled with chopsticks, did you learn when you were a baby?" That's really the key to my heart, my chopstick skills are a matter of personal pride.

I have to teach this stuff

2009-03-27T04:18:00.001-04:00

Can you please just look at #18 in relation to the rest of the page...

Window to my Life

2009-03-25T09:13:00.012-04:00

My name in Korean - apparently it's not an easy translation

Street fish: pancake outside, red bean inside... so good!

A note left for me after English Club from Kelly(her "English Club name")

Late night in Seoul with my left arm and my right arm

Seoul Tower

A view of the city from Seoul Tower - high rises stretch to the horizon in every direction.

It Came From Outer Space

2009-03-24T09:40:00.004-04:00

After nearly a month in Korea I am finally a legal and registered resident (for one year). My Alien Registration Card arrived a timely one day before pay day so that I could open a bank account and actually get some cash tomorrow. More importantly, I can finally get a cell phone! No more, "Meet me at Exit 3 of Itaewon Station at 10:30..." and stressing out about getting there on time.

I am pretty psyched about becoming an alien. It helps to explain a lot of the strange stares I get on the subway. I can also now blame all my eccentricities and mistakes on being an alien.

No, no it's not weird. Let me explain. You see, I'm an alien...

I even have the card to prove it.

The Yellow Dust Cometh

2009-03-22T08:20:00.004-04:00

Spring has arrived in Seoul. The roaring winds have softened into gentle breezes and the air has lost it's hostile bite. Sun rays permeate the city, adding warmth and sparkle to an urban landscape refreshed by intermittent rain showers. Flower buds peak out from glistening blades of grass and birds return to trees still bare but humming with the energy of transformation. In the coming weeks the famous cherry blossoms will bloom emitting their fragrant colorful magic into the air. Restaurants will spill over into the streets and parks will swell with activity as all of Seoul enjoys the contentment of Springtime.

Not everything that Springtime brings is pleasant, however. The warm breeze carries with it what is called the "Yellow Dust." This phenomenon occurs when sand from the deserts in Mongolia is disturbed by storms and carried across China, Korea, and Japan by the winds. The dust collects pollutants during its journey across industrialized China and then hangs over Korea in a hazy yellow cloud. The dust can cause respiratory and eye problems in addition to being a general nuisance. Outdoor activity is not advised and many Koreans wear masks to protect their throats and lungs.

The Yellow Dust arrived last week, and so far I haven't noticed any symptoms other than minor eye irritation. I also haven't really noticed huge changes in visibility. The dust arrives sporadically throughout the Spring, however, so it might be that the worst days have not yet occurred. I'm not too excited to find out.

I'm a Barbie Girl in a Korean World

2009-03-19T09:05:00.003-04:00

I'm just starting to settle into my new life. I've bought a toothbrush to keep at work so I can join in on the after lunch tooth brushing ritual, which, I must say, is heavenly. I've found the world's spiciest green onion kimchi at the supermarket and learned to cook some damn good tofu/seaweed/lettuce wraps. I've begun to pick out personality types at school even without language. I know the "saucy secretary", the "popular girls", and the "vice principal who actually runs the world" among many others. I have my T Money card for the subway and plenty of cutesy animal key chains on my key ring. I have even started to approve of the whole indoor shoe thing.

Tomorrow is Friday again and I'm not sure where the week has gone. Wednesday was Parents Day, so the school was flooded with proud mamas and papas and the teachers were on full alert. Luckily for me no parents observed English class. In fact, I only had my first two classes because the kids had to be elsewhere. My only duty was to appear on the school broadcast and smile then bow when the principal introduced me. At the time, I had no idea what he was saying, but I later found out that I am "Brittany, our very beautiful teacher." It turns out, in Korea this is the number one qualification for an English teacher. Nobody wants to talk about your resume, you are really just for show and tell (except maybe the school handyman who has apparently read through all my application materials). My friends and I spent our first days at school being gushed over, and I can't say that I minded. I especially like the fourth grade boys who call me "pretty teacher." I am totally not above being flattered by nine year olds.

In the afternoon I was really cranky because it was an hour past the normal lunch period and no one had told me when I was going to eat. Normally there is delicious Korean food waiting for me at noon, but the teacher's room was locked. Then my co-teacher came and informed me I had to fork over 20,000 won for a mysterious "first period teachers meeting". After some hard core questioning I found out that it's a community pot used for special lunches and tea between some of the teachers on my floor.

We headed to one of the other classrooms and there was a really nice lunch waiting that had been specially ordered. I ate with three other female teachers and one male teacher. I didn't understand a word they said, which was much more awkward in such a small group. I definitely knew when they were talking about me though, because they would all turn and look at me with amused expressions. The male teacher was impressed with my eating. He said, "You like Korean food! You have been to Korea before!" Koreans love it when you eat, especially if you are eating kimchi. There are always several community plates to eat off of in addition to your actual meal, and I've noticed that they eat a lot here. They also eat extremely quickly. I am definitely what people at home consider a fast eater, but I can barely keep up here. Lunch is a ten minute affair.

After finishing I sat awkwardly during more Korean talk and had a cup of coffee and something they were very eager for me to try which they called a "flour cake." They passed me a tray of small round cookies in different colors and I chose a green one hoping it would be green tea flavored. It tasted like crumbly sugar cookie dough. Desserts are always just sickeningly sweet sugar bombs in Asia. Luckily they are also tiny.

Later I learned that English Club would be starting up next week so my afternoons were about to get busier. I had to choose my own textbook at the bookstore and come up with a curriculum for the Spring semester. I'm going to have two classes with four students in each, and then one combined class every week. The small size means we can do a lot of fun activities, so I'm really excited. It's also nice to be able to plan my own lessons instead of using the boring national curriculum and it will be good experience. This year the club is for low income students who can't afford English tutors. In Korea, it is very competitive and standardized tests basically determine your entire future. Families with money spend a lot of it getting their children extra classes and the other kids unfortunately get left in the dust. Korean kids work hard! They are in some type of class from morning to night.

All in all, it's been a good week. One of the highlights was overhearing an extra class my co-teacher was teaching this afternoon. She taught the kids the song "Barbie Girl," which, if you've heard the lyrics, is completely inappropriate for sixth graders... "I'm a blonde bimbo.... kiss me here touch me there hanky panky..." She definitely had no idea what she was teaching them and those sixth grade boys certainly go into it.

The Whole World is the Same

2009-03-15T09:28:00.004-04:00

My second week at school went a lot better once I started drinking coffee again. The past month I got by fine with just tea, but that was only because I had absolutely nothing to do with my life. I need a lot of energy to keep up with the kids every morning, so caffeine is a must. Koreans mostly drink nasty instant coffee with creamer and sugar already mixed in. I was not having that, so I managed to find black instant coffee, which while still kind of gross, does the trick. I have to put at least two packets in each cup to make it even resemble real coffee, however.

Friday was class election day, so all the kids were ridiculously roudy. I teach 5th and 6th grades on Fridays and I nearly lost my voice by the end of the day from yelling over them. Luckily we were only doing fun things like a Little Mermaid role play and a country game, so I managed to keep their attention. I was a little sad because I didn't get any candy for White Day. White Day was on Saturday and it is a lot like Valentine's Day, only bigger. In Korea, on V-day women buy candy for the men they like and on White Day the men have to reciprocate. Apparently nobody loves me. Oh well.

Friday night I went out with some people who live in my neighborhood. It was great to finally meet other teachers in Sanbon. A lot of them live in my building and have been in Korea for at least a year. They had a lot of good advice for me, the best one being an introduction to yogurt soju, which, if you know my yogurt loving ways, I obviously am obsessed with. It's clear, comes in a pitcher, contains two bottles of soju, and tastes exactly like a drinkable yogurt. Oh heavenly! They also showed me the elusive Pirate Bar that I had read all about before I came here but couldn't find. It wasn't as exciting as I imagined, but they serve beer in ice glasses which you then throw at a target on the wall. The ice smashes and if you hit the target you win free drinks. I'm all for smashing things and free stuff so I'm a fan.

On Saturday afternoon there was a huge St. Paddy's Day celebration in Seoul. I met Maddy and we spent the afternoon enjoying Irish music, free Guinness, and a whole bunch of cool Westerners. We had a really great time - a great time that extended from noon until 6 am the next morning. I ended up falling asleep on the subway ride home and waking up every so often because I hit my head on the metal pole behind me. Luckily I didn't miss my stop and managed to climb into bed by 7:30.

I slept it all off this afternoon and now its back to work for another week. I'm crossing my fingers that my alien registration card comes in the mail this week so that I can open a bank account and get a cell phone. I managed to pass my medical exam even with my hearing impairment, and I made it to the dreaded immigration office, so once my card arrives I will officially be a resident of South Korea for the next year. I've got absolutely no problem with a year of this...

Konglish of the Week

2009-03-15T03:34:00.003-04:00

They gave us these drinks for dessert at school. Drinking it brought me back to my childhood on the farm...

FYI

2009-03-11T02:03:00.010-04:00

I am starting a new support group called "I didn't know I was disabled until I took my Korean Medical Exam"

If you or a loved one can relate to this experience, please contact me. So far, we are a two person group...

Let's Talk About Kimchi, Baby

2009-03-10T09:00:00.005-04:00

While the number one question students ask me is undoubtedly, "Do you have a boyfriend?", "Do you like kimchi?" runs a close second. Korea loves its kimchi and its fairly easy to see why.

Kimchi is made from mixing and fermenting vegetables with garlic, red pepper, vinegar and salt. The most common version is made with cabbage, but kimchi can be made with many other ingredients such as radishes or green onions. The result is a spicy super food regularly named as one of the healthiest foods in the world.

Koreans eat kimchi at nearly every meal, and it has been a staple of their diet for centuries. It is believed that the consumption of this food aids digestion and boosts immunity. Indeed, studies have shown lowered cholesterol, improved intestinal health, essential vitamins and minerals, and live probiotics are just a few of kimchi's considerable charms.

If you are going to enjoy kimchi, you better like your food with a lot of garlic and a lot of spice. Luckily for me, I can never have enough of either, so naturally, kimchi and I get along perfectly. Plus, the Polish side of me is all about anything pickled/fermented and anything with cabbage. At every Korean meal you'll be served kimchi and I for one would never turn it down. I think my students and my body will approve.

Livin the Dream

2009-03-08T08:10:00.009-04:00

It's five o'clock on Friday afternoon, and after a long hard day of facebook, it's time to let loose. I pack a bag and head to the subway station to catch the train to Bucheon to visit Lacy. I haven't seen Lacy in a whole week, which after being glued at the hip in Thailand feels like an eternity. I can't wait to talk about our week, but mostly I'm just excited to see her new Asian haircut.

This is my first time using the subway, so I'm really hoping I won't get lost. It turns out the Seoul Subway System is awesome. All of the signs and announcements are in both Korean and English and everything is set up pretty logically. Plus, my stop is on a really convenient line. The language thing is pretty huge, because unlike Thailand nobody in Korea seems to speak any English. They also cannot comprehend that someone could be unable to speak Korean, so even after you try to explain that you can't understand them, a Korean will continue on with an enthusiastic five minute monologue while you smile and nod helplessly.

After a seamless one hour ride, I arrive at Bucheon Station and meet Lacy. When we get to her apartment we proceed to drink two bottles of red wine and chatter incessantly. I haven't spoken to a native English speaker all week, so “I have too many words in my head.” Lacy has no cups, so we drink our wine out of plastic Popsicle makers (yes, the girl doesn't own a single cup, yet managed to buy Popsicle makers...). We also make some really delicious curried tofu and rice.

All of a sudden, we look up and realize it is now 1:30 am and we haven't even left the apartment. Should we go to sleep? Never! It's off to the expat bar we go! After wandering around lost in the cold for ten minutes we hop a cab and make it to Rhythm and Blues bar, only its in Konglish and says something like, Rhythm and Rooz...ah Korea. I meet some of Lacy's friends, and friends of friends and we play some darts. Everyone is talking and laughing and suddenly I am starving. Lacy's eyes are half closed and I ask her if she wants to get something to eat. I'm wondering why I'm hungry until I realize that its about 5:30 am. We head to a Korean restaurant for some bibimbap (Korean rice with veggies...so good!) and manage to order some food with the help of a new friend. By the end of the meal Lacy is trying to use the table as a pillow, so I figure its time to take her home. The sun is on its way up as we enter her apartment.

We did have plans to meet some friends in Seoul at 2 pm the next day to have lunch and explore, but we wake up at 1:30 and immediately discard such a crazy idea. Instead we lay around until 4, get ready to go out, and then head back to the subway. Tonight at 7 we are meeting everyone from our group in Thailand for Mexican food in Itaewon. I tried several times to get my beloved chips and salsa in Thailand, but always ended up with some sort of wonton chips and chili sauce (gross!) so I'm really hoping for better luck in Seoul. Lucky me, the food is yummy and they have actual corn tortilla chips and guacamole. It's really fun to see everyone again, and also strange because we are all fully clothed (and grumbling about the cold). I also enjoy seeing cheese again for the first time in six weeks. I learned a really fun fact at dinner (thanks Kel!) - salsa is actually the Korean word for throw up. You'd think that would put a damper on my salsa feast, but you'd be wrong.

After dinner some Soju (Korean alcoholic beverage of choice) juice boxes are broken out and we head to a bar for a drink before hopping the subway to meet some of Maddy's friends in Hongdae. Lucky us, drinks are 2000 won off until midnight! Better drink two... We manage to make it in time to meet her friends and then we head to a club for some dancing. I order another drink and magically, I get two! Lucky me, its two for one! I think you can see a pattern developing here (I officially love Seoul). Did I mention what I paid for my two drinks? Three bucks. We spend the night dancing, taking pictures of ourselves (of course) and randomly yelling out “I love my life!” Then of course when it is a suitably early hour we go in search of Korean food. This time we literally scour the city for vegetarian food. Everyone tells us no, but I think they are just misunderstanding us on purpose. The 50th restaurant finally has something we can eat and we order up a small feast. After, we are exhausted by eating and faced with a predicament... the subway doesn't open until 6 am, we have a few hours to kill. And that is where the Korean sauna rears its magical head.

For the equivalent of 6 bucks we gain entrance into a 24 hour sauna complete with hot tubs, showers, saunas, and... A NAP ROOM! We put on the hilarious sauna outfits, have some good naked fun in the hot tub (why there are middle aged Korean women at the sauna at 4 am I just don't get...) then grab a mat, stretch out on the heated floor and pass out. At 8 am, a very adamant Korean woman wakes us up and we head out the door with our first weekend in Seoul behind us. It's official: we are living the dream.

A Typical Day

2009-03-08T01:14:00.002-05:00

Let's go through my extremely strenuous work schedule:

8:25 - roll out of my apartment

8:40 - arrive at school

9:00 - 12:00 - teach 3 or 4 forty minute classes to 3rd-6th graders

12:00 - 1:00 - eat delicious Korean lunch in the teacher's lounge

1:00 - 4:40 - spend about ten minutes on lesson plans then sit in front of space heater, drink green tea, and play on the Internet until its time to go home

go to gym, read/watch TV shows on Internet, cook dinner

Highlights/Lowlights: First Week of Work

2009-03-05T20:03:00.007-05:00

Highlights

Moving in to my first real apartment and the first place that has been my very own. Also, finding it fully stocked thanks to the previous teacher (alarm clock, hair dryer, toiletries, cleaning supplies, kitchen supplies, books, DVDs, etc.) I really love being up on the 15th floor, the view from my window, and the cozy size which is perfect for me.
Meeting my co-teacher, who could not be sweeter. She has been so helpful while I adjust to my new life, bringing me to the hospital for my medical exam (this was a low light) and even insisting that I walk home with her after the first day so she could give me some traditional medicine her brother (who's a doctor) gave her to help cure my cold. The poor thing often struggles to understand me when I forget to speak slowly, but she is so patient and its so easy to work with her.
Starting to teach on my second day. The kids in Korea are so well behaved and so intelligent. The mornings fly by because all I really have to do is act out/draw vocab, play games, and play videos. When I walk to school in the mornings I don't have that, "ugh, I have to work" feeling. My days are so laid back. Teach in the morning, have a delicious Korean lunch with the other teachers, then relax/plan lessons all afternoon.
Being able to walk anywhere in ten minutes or less. The grocery store/department store is next door (EMart, another highlight... they have EVERYTHING). My apartment is over a mall. Subway stop, five minutes away. Gym five minutes away. All the restaurants, coffee shops, and bars are just across the street and there is a nice park on the other side. No getting lost for me! And no expensive transportation costs

Playing hangman with my sixth graders. They just adore the game and its so fun to see them so excited. There is nothing like a little competition and the promise of a sticker to get kids going.
Walking through the hallways and having all the kids yelling, "Hi!", "Hello, teacher!", "Brittany!" in their adorable accents. I don't know if its just in Korea or everywhere in general, but when did kids become so outgoing?
The principal taking the teachers out for a really nice traditional Korean lunch on the first day. We sat on heated floors and ate sticky rice wrapped up in these huge brown leaves, a spicy stew, and loads of side dishes. I sat between my co-teacher and the principal, and everyone tried out their English (they're good!) and worried about whether I'd be able to eat with chopsticks.
The space heater sitting directly next to my chair in my classroom... also buying a big thick sweater, which I basically wear everyday. Oh yeah, and being able to wear whatever I want to work, even jeans.

My cost of living... which is basically nothing. No rent, no bills and everything is really cheap. Some examples of things I've bought. Korean lunch at an average restaurant: $3, Double package of tofu: $1, really nice new yoga mat $7, 3 month gym membership: $66

Speaking of the gym... the fact that Korean gyms provide you with gym clothes (hilarious t-shirts and giant shorts) and towels which they wash for you!!! No need to own any work out clothes, and no need to wash them all the time.

Low lights

The taxi driver who picked us up at the airport in a huge hurry and all annoyed because we didn't magically appear at the gate as soon as the flight landed (its called baggage and immigration!!). He played Mariah Carey music videos the whole way to my apartment and we couldn't figure out if they were for him or us. Apparently they were for me because once I got out he turned them off (or so I was told). I guess the videos were kind of a highlight...

Arriving to work on my first day wearing my "teacher flats" and no socks only to discover all about "indoor shoes". In Korea you need to wear special shoes that have never been worn outside in schools and many other places. One of the teachers graciously gave me a pair of open toe indoor shoes to borrow, not noticing my bare feet. The hallways are not heated so within two minutes I had icicle feet. To make matters worse, at lunch time when we all went to get our shoes before going out, all of the teachers and my principal suddenly noticed my feet and thought it was hilarious. "Feet cold!" My principal was particularly amused. All I could do was shamefully explain that I had no idea about changing your shoes. Let's just say I'll never forget socks again, and I bought myself some comfy indoor shoes.

Making the exact same mistake when I joined a gym and wore my gym shoes there. The owner wasn't quite as amused as my co-teachers were. You also need "indoor gym shoes" which you leave in the locker room. At first I was annoyed that I had to buy new shoes, but once I saw how cheap they were I was psyched, no need to go home and change before the gym, because everything you need is already there.

Sitting through the first day teacher's meeting... in Korean. It went on for about a half an hour. I basically stared into space and tried not to look too awkward. When they all started joking and laughing towards the end, I couldn't even do the "join in and pretend you get it" because they all know I can't understand a word.

Korean medical exams. You have to be examined to get your alien registration card, which you need to open a bank account and get a cell phone. It was very well organized and very fast but shuffling from room to room having blood drawn and x-rays taken is never a fun way to spend an afternoon. Also, I think I failed the hearing test... I sat in a booth and they said to press a button when I heard a noise. The beginning and end were fine but there was a long pause in the middle where I heard absolutely nothing. I don't think that's right...

Remarking to my co-teacher, "Tomorrow is friday, the week is over!" and then having her explain to me that in Korea there is school on most Saturdays. Foreign teachers are the only ones who get every Saturday off. She didn't seem to mind, but I felt like a jerk. Obviously, they wouldn't attract many Western teachers with a six day work week (especially not me!) but it is pretty unfair.

Missing my Thai peeps terribly... We spent every minute together for 5 weeks and now I have so much time to myself. At least I get to see them this weekend!

Fun Asian Fact Time

2009-03-04T08:37:00.002-05:00

There are a lot of black beans (and red beans) in Asian cooking. Beans and rice? Rarely. Black beans are used in Asian desserts. Steamed buns with black bean filling...mmmm And, I couldn't leave out my favorite ice cream flavor in Thailand... you guessed it, black bean. If that's hard to imagine, keep in mind these are not your Mexican beans. When sweetened, they taste completely different, and in my opinion, completely delicious.

Gratuitous

2009-03-03T06:33:00.001-05:00

Photos: Gunpo City

2009-03-03T05:36:00.016-05:00

Some pictures of the city, my place, cooking my first meal, and my classroom.

For Your Information

2009-03-02T08:42:00.001-05:00

Just so you know, you can comment on this blog. Actually, I'd really enjoy some comments if you feel compelled.... I'm compelling you.

Koh Chang

2009-03-01T09:27:00.004-05:00

Thailand is just brimming with small island paradises, but somehow I ended up on Koh Chang (elephant island) and it couldn't have been better. We stayed on Lonely Beach, a backpacker's haven full of palm trees, white sand, and parties. Every night one bar in the area throws "the party" so everyone staying in Lonely Beach ends up in the same place and you never go to the same bar two nights in a row. The best part is if you meet people at the beach or out one night you don't have to exchange any information because you know you'll always run into your new friends at night! We made loads of friends due to this arrangement and there was always something fun to do. Staying in just wasn't really an option, unless sitting in a dark bungalow is your kind of thing. It wasn't ours, plus there was always free barbecue to be had. Pineapple and tofu kabobs? Yes please! The parties were always fun, but nothing could beat our favorite local hangout... drinking bottles of sam song outside the mini mart. There were a lot of good times there and I think we successfully passed the tradition on to new travelers.

During the day there is jungle trekking, snorkeling, boat trips, waterfalls, and of course the beach. It was brutally hot during the day so we preferred sleeping in, eating breakfast in hammocks by the water, laying on the beach, playing frisbee, having a nap, going to dinner, then getting ready for the night. I did manage to get in some snorkeling, a boat trip, and a nice long open ocean swim. But really, it's an island and on a budget trip in between class and a new job, there is really little motivation to do anything other than chill. By the end of ten days I was about fifty shades darker, infinitely more relaxed, and in possession of a new perspective on life: what it can be and the work that must be done to make it that way.

Moving Backwards in Time

2009-03-01T04:22:00.003-05:00

I have so many thoughts that I think they need to come out in list form. Be prepared for a few of these...

Reasons Thailand Changed My Life:

* Learning that life doesn't have to be a certain way, you can live it however you choose. Most travelers here work 6-8 months of the year and backpack the rest. You'll never have a lot of money or own many things, but its hard to wish for a mortgage or even a new pair of shoes when you are lying in paradise or hiking in northern Thailand.

* On a similar note, spending about $300 in over a month in Thailand, including ten days on a tropical island, all food/drink, travel costs, accommodations a boat trip/hike here and there... this may make the first part more clear. And I didn't even put myself on a hardcore budget... imagine the possibilities...

* Happy go lucky, laid back, smiling Thai people

* Eating the best food of my life, making it to the gym maybe four times, and losing weight. Spring rolls, pad thai, mango sticky rice, coconut juice, green tea, seaweed chips, wasabi peas, glass noodles, papaya salad, red/yellow/green curry... I'm making myself hungry. Oh, and when found on street carts you've hit the jackpot.

* Street dogs lounging on floor pillows, street cats sunning on your deck (and friends who wear them as scarves...), monkeys grooming cats, puppies everywhere, elephants in the street, cows at your bungalow, tropical fish nibbling on your legs

* Swimming to uninhabited islands and drinking fresh coconut juice by smashing fallen coconuts on beach rocks.

* Sam song. I wish I could describe it accurately. Often found in a bucket with coca cola, tasteless when mixed with coke even in huge quantities, zero. hangovers. ever., dirt cheap.

* Becoming so one with nature while staying in a bungalow made of bamboo that even a giant cockroach riding on my back can't scare me enough to keep me up at night. Yes, that's correct I had a giant cockroach on me and no one would get it off. I am becoming really rugged lately.

* Meeting and bonding with more people in a month than I often do in a few years. Yes you become close and then you disperse and maybe never meet again, but that's what is facebook is for! I am so inspired by/in love with/thankful for all the wonderful people I have been spending time with.

* Learning what it is to be a teacher and having the chance to practice with Thai children. What a fun job and how lucky I am to be able to play games all day and call it work!

* Finding out what the "big deal is about Thailand" after wondering for so long. I've been clued into the secret and I'm glad I found out at 22 because I am most definitely going back. I can feel a backpacking trip coming on at the end of this year...

Home Sweet Home!

2009-03-01T03:14:00.003-05:00

M.I.A.

2009-02-27T23:18:00.002-05:00

So I haven't written in a while as I have been stranded on an island in paradise... poor me. Ten days on Koh Chang was a terrible burden to bear but somehow I seem to have survived and now find myself in Seoul. Yes, I have made the big move, am terribly jet lagged, but really excited. All I can say right now is my city is amazing.

In the next few days there will be much more posted on Thailand, Seoul, teaching, life, adjusting, and everything else anyone might want (or not want) to know.

For now... LIFE IS GOOD.

2009-02-11T06:58:00.000-05:00

2009-02-11T06:55:00.000-05:00

Temples

2009-02-11T06:32:00.002-05:00

Vines twist around the rusty iron gate. It stands, a proud relic amidst the restaurants and shops crowding the city street.

'Come in, come in!' an old Thai man calls to me from inside.

He wears a blue baseball cap covered in flag pins from around the world and is eager to show off his English skills. He tells me I should come inside to see the temple, that he was a monk here for fifteen years before leaving the monastery to care for his elderly parents. Then he tells me about a flower festival happening this weekend and points out the night markets.

'You are a special friend,' he says, 'and when you walk by to see the markets you must come see me. You'll know me by my hat.'

I smile, thank him and agree, wondering how many 'special friends' he's made during his time standing guard at the temple gate.

This temple is indeed special, not because it is big and grand like many in Chiang Mai. This temple is humble and real. I am the only one inside the gates besides the monks, caretakers, and requisite street dogs. The sounds of a vibrant city dissipate into distant memories as I enter beneath a canopy of thick broad leaves. They sway in the breeze, playing a rhythmic song of light and shadow over the shimmering surface of the stone. Birds call to one another from the tree tops as butterflies flit to and from large magenta blossoms.

I pass the minutes wandering through this sanctuary in perfect equilibrium. No sadness, no ecstasy, just peaceful contentment and a moment to breathe outside of the bustle of the city. As I cross back through the gate I wave goodbye to my friend and leave my storybook oasis to the next passerby. I have an afternoon with friends in the city center ahead of me.

Temples and Trekking - New Photos

2009-02-01T20:35:00.002-05:00

It was a great weekend, check out more photos with this link:

Temples and Trekking Slideshow

or for thumbnails:

Temples and Trekking Photos

Morning in Chiang Mai

2009-01-29T08:40:00.002-05:00

I wake up before the sun rises and head out to the street. The air that envelopes me is cool, dense, and humming with the vibrations of a city awakening. This is the most peaceful time; the swarm of motorbikes has not yet taken to the street, its guttural cries not yet permeating the sounds of a night in decline.

Monks walk barefoot in their orange robes, tracing well worn routes as the sky tints pink. They stop from time to time to accept offerings of food which they return with blessings. The offerers kneel in the street, their heads bowed low as a river of chanting rains down upon them. Always when I see the monks I think there could not be people whose lives have diverged so completely, I and them, yet here we are in this Chiang Mai street, watching the morning come.

The vendors lining the street have not yet opened; their warring scents of spices do not yet fill the air. The sky is orange then yellow as a chorus of birds greets the new day. Then, in an instant, there is sun, and the city swells in recognition. The world is suddenly thrust into motion, and I stand amidst it all, my thoughts drowned out by its song.

Mai Thai Skit

2009-01-29T07:57:00.002-05:00

Traveling Gordito and the Mangosteen!

2009-01-27T05:26:00.004-05:00

You know it had to be... THAI FOOD!!

2009-01-27T04:50:00.004-05:00

It wouldn't be right if I didn't spend some time on the splendor that is Thai food. For under a dollar you can fascinate (and sometimes scorch) your taste buds on some of the most delicious food under the sun. Chile, garlic, cilantro, basil, lime, curry, coconut, and peanuts mingle in indescribable proportions in a land where "spicy" means painful and "not spicy" means pretty damn spicy.

The Thai people live up to their legendary friendliness and are always glad to explain the various dishes to bewildered farang foreigners. When language barriers make this difficult I have found that pointing at pretty much anything results in a sensational meal. Last night I had a fantastic Thai version of nime chow from a street vendor, hand made with tofu and fresh vegetables with green chile and cilantro sauce on the side. Also, just when I thought I had run out of new fruits to try, enter the mangosteen, a small purple fruit filled with tiny white globes that taste like a cross between a mango and a nectarine.

Its no wonder that cooking classes are so numerous and popular with visitors to Chiang Mai. Sampling authentic red curry or pad thai and experiencing the symphony of flavors within each dish inevitably leads to a desire to unlock the secrets of the cuisine and bring them home. I get the feeling, however, that these are not the types of dishes that can be replicated faithfully, so I defer to the masters and eagerly take on the role of appreciative taster.

Upon Leaving Part II aka Leaving is the hardest part

2009-01-24T02:29:00.003-05:00

I don't have to be doing this. I think this over and over again. This was all me. I dreamed up, instigated, and executed this entire plan. What if I made a mistake? What if this was all a big mistake? Okay, breathe. I am in control here. If I make a mistake I correct it. But this is no mistake, this is my life.

Okay, I think, I can handle this. The plane begins to roll away from JFK... slowly like my pulse. What? Clearance already? The engines are roaring in my ears and the plane rapidly gains speed along with my thoughts. I'm losing it again... the horizon is a blur, the plane is so loud. Its definitely lost now as I feel that unmistakable transition from grounded to airborne. I am on a sixteen hour flight to Hong Kong. This was all me.

I am a crazed pendulum. Swinging back and forth out of control. I feel giddy. This is my adventure. Not only that, this is the beginning of my adventure. But here comes the swing: there are six plane letters in my bag. I don't think the writers of these letters understand their own perverse cruelty. I read all six in a row like some kind of nostalgia junkie. I am crying and sniffling all over myself. The people around me look uncomfortable, so I search for a tissue and somehow manage to knock orange juice onto the woman next to me. There are orange pools standing atop her black pants and I don't even have the tissue to offer her. I am mortified. I need to get a grip.

Or, rather, I need to get out of the grip... of fear. This is where it happens. Every time. When you are traveling alone and you know your journey is long, that first plane ride is an intense emotional obstacle. The wonderful thing about experience, however, is that the fear and confusion have become familiar if not easier. I know its going to be frightening. I know I am challenging myself. I know I will meet new and amazing people, see beautiful sights, and learn more than I can imagine. I know I will be happy.

And then, magically, I've arrived and the fear gives way to wonder. There is no more time for apprehension once I've left the time/space vortex of the plane ride and it is time to start living. So here I am and we shall see what dreams may come.